My Second BIAB - The Power of Stirring?

Post #1 made 14 years ago
Learning quite a bit from my first BIAB, I was confident this second time around. I made a whole lot less mess, I stressed a whole lot less too. I was too cocky for my own good...

Somehow I got a 1.047 gravity when I was shooting for a 1.074. This was a 10.5 pound (4.76 KG) grain bill in a 3.5 gallon batch. I did Maxi-BIAB style again this time around on my stove, using my little 5 gallon aluminum kettle.

So yeah, somehow my mash was totally off. I had the low gravity even before sparging, so it was my main mash that caused the issue.

Rewind back to my first batch, using nearly the same grain bill, this one gave me around a 1.085 gravity before the sparge was added. So, what did I do different then? The only thing I can think of is that on my first batch, I stirred a lot as I doughed in. On this second batch, I just dumped the entire grain bill in one go, and stirred afterword. When I poured the grist in, it piled up above the head line of the kettle, and I had to push it down as I stirred to get it mixed in. After mashout, I noticed that the top layer of the grain didn't look submerged even though it was submerged after I stirred it.

Am I on the right track here as far as what I did wrong? With such a small kettle, did the lack of stirring cause low extraction? On my first batch with nearly the same grain bill, I poured a little grain, then stirred, then poured a little more, etc. I got pretty good extraction on that first batch, and I think that the stirring allowed the grain to absorb the water better. Thoughts?

Edit: I just thought of a second big variable. I use bottled water because my tap is crap here in Vegas. On my first batch, I used Arrowhead bottled water, which was very basic. I added some PH stabilizer to it to bring it down. On my second batch, I used Albertson's bottled water, which was right on at a 5.4 ph, so I didn't add anything. I have no clue what the actual water profile is for either of these two bottled water products. Could the water have much to do with it?

Thanks in advance,
Dan

P.S. Luckily I had some DME laying around, so the batch should be fine. :)
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Post #2 made 14 years ago
Great post Dan!

Figures are a big issue for all of us when we start all-graining. We see recipes with volumes and weights quoted to 2 decimal places and think we should be able to match them.

I have been all-graining for maybe five years now and have done a fair bit of study on figures because I could never work out why I could never match anyone else's figure's exactly or was sometimes way off.

I now know a bit better and realise it is actually impossible (no matter how good at measuring you are) it is to do a single brew without quite a large margin of error. Brewers who tell you they can brew the same recipe time and time again and then tell you that changing one factor in their brewing regime makes a difference are living in a fantasy world. And may the brewing gods continue to bless them with this fantasy!

And here, I am talking about normal BIAB, not maxi or mini-BIAB. Normal home-brewing is using macro instruments to measure micro results. Mini and maxi-BIAB is using macro equipment to measure electron-microscopic results!

After what must be five years of study on this one single issue, I can tell you that it is impossible for you to suspect that one single change in your brewing has made a significant difference. A lack of stirring in this case, for example is not the answer.

Just do the basics on your first brews ensuring that you have covered the basics I wrote on here.

You should brew recipes aiming at an OG of around 1.050 as this is a common gravity figure and with mini or maxi-BIAB you are already testing the boundaries.

Here you can see in tabular form the results of 40 brewers being given exactly the same ingredients and being asked to measure their results. All were using 'full-size' equipment and look how they went - lol!

So dantheman, do more brews. That will give you the experience to develop a simultaneous respect and disrespect for figures and a lot more trust in your palate. Your memory, mouth and nose will always be a lot more accurate than any figures you record on a single brew. And, even when you do notice a difference there, don't assume it is because you changed one thing.

As I said, great post Dan. I love seeing new brewers really thinking. For example, you might well be right that with mini-BIAB you should add the grist slowly and stir but without doing ten brews one way and ten brews the other, we will never know for sure and neither will you ;).

Cheers Dan,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 09 May 2011, 23:43, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Thanks, those are all good points. I did take my gravity readings with a calibrated refractometer this time. I didn't take a measurement with a hydrometer to verify. Looking back, that probably would have been a good idea. The wort definitely tasted watered down compared to my last batch.

In any case, I will definitely stir and go back to my Arrowhead water with PH Stabilizer, and see what happens! I will probably use a similar grain bill; now I am just curious if I can narrow down what the problem might have been!

Thanks again,
Dan
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
When I poured the grist in, it piled up above the head line of the kettle, and I had to push it down as I stirred to get it mixed in. After mashout, I noticed that the top layer of the grain didn't look submerged even though it was submerged after I stirred it.
Dan, could it be that the top layer of grain did not get completely wet? If that was the case, that could be you problem. I do think that there is magic in stirring!
Last edited by 2trout on 10 May 2011, 07:32, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
Hey Dan, that must be bewildering! I would eliminate as many of the variables as possible, so firstly go back to the water you know works. Also, check all of your measurements of mass and volume, plus check the performance of all the instruments (i.e. hydrometer, refractometer, thermometer, timer etc).
Here's some food for thought: I actually put the grain into the bag first and then lower that into the kettle which is partly- filled with strike water (but reserve a few litres in a jug). Give it a few moments for the grist to soak up some water, then stir well and measure the temp, adjust up or down if need be with some of the reserved strike water. Insulate it well then test it again in 10 minutes after it has stabilised and adjust if need be, however remember that with Maxi-BIAB you want the kettle to be full to the brim during the mash, so manage that reserved water carefully (i.e. boil it if need be or use some cold). After that I don't touch it for at least an hour, I give it a stir just before hoisting the bag, sparge as per the method. I usually get around 80% efficiency with Maxi-BIAB.
Hope this helps!
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Post #7 made 14 years ago
Ralph wrote:Hey Dan, that must be bewildering! I would eliminate as many of the variables as possible, so firstly go back to the water you know works. Also, check all of your measurements of mass and volume, plus check the performance of all the instruments (i.e. hydrometer, refractometer, thermometer, timer etc).
Here's some food for thought: I actually put the grain into the bag first and then lower that into the kettle which is partly- filled with strike water (but reserve a few litres in a jug). Give it a few moments for the grist to soak up some water, then stir well and measure the temp, adjust up or down if need be with some of the reserved strike water. Insulate it well then test it again in 10 minutes after it has stabilised and adjust if need be, however remember that with Maxi-BIAB you want the kettle to be full to the brim during the mash, so manage that reserved water carefully (i.e. boil it if need be or use some cold). After that I don't touch it for at least an hour, I give it a stir just before hoisting the bag, sparge as per the method. I usually get around 80% efficiency with Maxi-BIAB.
Hope this helps!
Thanks a lot for responding, Ralph. Using some top up at the start of the mash to help with dough in was another thing I didn't do on this second batch (I did do that on my first batch though). The grist plus water was definitely filled to the brim. The grains were submerged after I stirred them in, but they didn't look submerged when I checked them after the mash. After I stabilized the temperature at the start of the mash, I didn't open the kettle lid until after the mash was done. My temperature was pretty stable through the entire mash. I didn't calibrate my digital thermometer though, so there is a possibility it was off as well.

So, here's my list for next time:

1. Go back to my old water + PH Stabalizer.
2. Stir while doughing in (or maybe use Ralph's method), and reserve some water for top up.
3. Calibrate my thermometer.
4. Take both a hydrometer reading and a refractometer reading to make sure the refractometer is working right.

I'll post back after my next batch. I am going to do another 10.5 - 11 pound grain bill just because I want to figure this out. So far, based on everyone's input, I am guessing it was the water profile that was the factor. Thanks for all the help, guys. :)
Last edited by dantheman13 on 10 May 2011, 14:05, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #8 made 14 years ago
2trout wrote:
When I poured the grist in, it piled up above the head line of the kettle, and I had to push it down as I stirred to get it mixed in. After mashout, I noticed that the top layer of the grain didn't look submerged even though it was submerged after I stirred it.
Dan, could it be that the top layer of grain did not get completely wet? If that was the case, that could be you problem. I do think that there is magic in stirring!
It got wet when I first stirred in, but after the mashout it didn't look like it was submerged at all. It was wet, but not submerged, if that makes sense. I wonder if the top up water makes a big difference here? As you pour in the top up, that pushes the top layer of grains down, so that might make sense.

Note that the stirring I describe during my first batch was just during the dough in. I have never stirred during the actual mash because most folks here say its not necessary.
Last edited by dantheman13 on 10 May 2011, 14:13, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #9 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:And here, I am talking about normal BIAB, not maxi or mini-BIAB. Normal home-brewing is using macro instruments to measure micro results. Mini and maxi-BIAB is using macro equipment to measure electron-microscopic results!
Just quickly dan, I hope no one misinterprets that paragraph which was written in a rush. Mini-BIAB's are a bit harder to measure than normal BIAB's because of the two vessells and smaller volumes. "Electron-microscopic" was an exageration I used to try and quickly say this.

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 11 May 2011, 20:33, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:
PistolPatch wrote:And here, I am talking about normal BIAB, not maxi or mini-BIAB. Normal home-brewing is using macro instruments to measure micro results. Mini and maxi-BIAB is using macro equipment to measure electron-microscopic results!
Just quickly dan, I hope no one misinterprets that paragraph which was written in a rush. Mini-BIAB's are a bit harder to measure than normal BIAB's because of the two vessells and smaller volumes. "Electron-microscopic" was an exageration I used to try and quickly say this.

Cheers,
PP
I knew what you meant, and I totally understand what you mean. That is an incentive to get off of Maxi-BIAB, but I'll be doing it for a while due to space limitations. Anyway, thanks again. :)
Last edited by dantheman13 on 13 May 2011, 13:41, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #11 made 14 years ago
I just wanted to update this thread with what I am pretty sure the cause was: my bag.

My first BIAB bag was a 5 gallon paint strainer from Home Depot. The second (and a third) BIAB bag was a 5 gallon paint strainer from Lowes. Same difference, right? Wrong! The Lowes bags didn't line my kettle very well because they were more narrow in shape. There was a lot of dead space between the bag an the walls of my kettle. Lesson learned: the instruction about using a bag that completely lines the walls of your kettle is not to be ignored!
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Post #12 made 14 years ago
Hi Dan,
Glad to see you are thinking through your problems and sharing them here.

The rule of thumb with bags is that your pot should be able to fit inside your bag then you know its big enough.

:salute:

Yeasty
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Post #13 made 14 years ago
Long time between drinks Dan :P

Great to hear back from you and to hear you have it all sorted. I hope it didn't take too many brews to find the problem :dunno:.

:peace:
PP
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