Post #2 made 11 years ago
Nice job Jerry. This type of brewday pictorial is invaluable to all, I hope you ran the hot water from the NC back into the pool. Some guys use a march pump and use the pool water for the first 1/2 or more of the chill.
AWOL

Post #3 made 11 years ago
Lylo wrote:Nice job Jerry. This type of brewday pictorial is invaluable to all, I hope you ran the hot water from the NC back into the pool. Some guys use a march pump and use the pool water for the first 1/2 or more of the chill.
No need for march pump. I just run the pool filter. It has a takeoff faucet that diverts flow to a garden hose to empty the pool when it is too full from rain.
I can use that hose to supply the chiller. And yes, the output goes back to the pool. Better than solar heating!! :lol:
Last edited by JerryCraft on 28 Jul 2014, 08:49, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 11 years ago
That is a great pictorial. Normally I never comment on them as they have so many errors. That is very good Jerry. Only error I found (which you found as well) was the trying to filter through a bag.

A few new pics on your next brew and I reckon that could become an official BIABrewer pictorial*.

Top job!
PP

* Send Pat a PM. He would love that.
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
Hey Jerry that was really cool, thanks for sharing. I look forward to your series of YouTube videos (hint hint) lol. Kolsch = yum! Nice beer style choice.

Nick.

Edited as I shouldn't post early in the mornings or late at night, believe it or not I do know the difference between Grolsch (a brand) and Kolsch (a beer type). Four Pines Kolsch is one of my alltime favourite beers, yummo! :drink:
Last edited by nicko on 01 Aug 2014, 11:51, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 made 11 years ago
nicko wrote:Hey Jerry that was really cool, thanks for sharing. I look forward to your series of YouTube videos (hint hint) lol. Grolsch = yum! Nice beer style choice.

Nick.
Hi, thanks for the kind words.
The beer is actually a Kölsch style. This is a German beer style unique to Cologne ("Köln" in German).
Kölsch is a hybrid style beer. It is similar to a lagar, but uses a cold tolerant Ale yeast for fermentation.
It is generally "lagared" for a shorter time than a true lagar.

My recipe has two ingredients which are not found in native made Kölsch. The small amounts of Vienna and Wheat malt add to the profile.
Wheat was historically included in Kölsch predecessors, but not current day recipes which are all barley based.
None the less, the simple nearly all light barley malt grain bill leaves little room for hiding any brewing errors.

The result should be a "lagar like" very light hybrid ale, with hints of fruity esters. Little to no hops flavor or aroma.

Only time will tell what actually ends up in the bottles!! :lol:
Jerry

Grolsch is a pale pilsner lagar made in the Netherlands.
Last edited by JerryCraft on 01 Aug 2014, 04:16, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #7 made 11 years ago
Wow, I thought Kolsch in my head (beer style) and typed Grolsch (beer brand).. wonder what time I wrote that post? must have been half asleep!!
JerryCraft wrote:
nicko wrote:Hey Jerry that was really cool, thanks for sharing. I look forward to your series of YouTube videos (hint hint) lol. Grolsch = yum! Nice beer style choice.

Nick.
Hi, thanks for the kind words.
The beer is actually a Kölsch style. This is a German beer style unique to Cologne ("Köln" in German).
Kölsch is a hybrid style beer. It is similar to a lagar, but uses a cold tolerant Ale yeast for fermentation.
It is generally "lagared" for a shorter time than a true lagar.

My recipe has two ingredients which are not found in native made Kölsch. The small amounts of Vienna and Wheat malt add to the profile.
Wheat was historically included in Kölsch predecessors, but not current day recipes which are all barley based.
None the less, the simple nearly all light barley malt grain bill leaves little room for hiding any brewing errors.

The result should be a "lagar like" very light hybrid ale, with hints of fruity esters. Little to no hops flavor or aroma.

Only time will tell what actually ends up in the bottles!! :lol:
Jerry

Grolsch is a pale pilsner lagar made in the Netherlands.
Last edited by nicko on 01 Aug 2014, 11:43, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #10 made 11 years ago
My Kolsch has been in the primary for 9 days, then transferred to secondary for 7 days.
There was a fair bit of suspended yeast and haze. I then lagared to 34 degrees for 9 days, heading for total of two weeks.
Then I will bottle carbonate.
Here is what it looks like at present.
hazy.jpg
Hazysediment.jpg
I want to get rid of some of the haze. The pictures attached show the chilled wort, with haze and the sediment on the bottom and rings of the fermentation vessel ( Better Bottle.)
I was thinking gelatin. I am told one sterilizes a cup of water, brings it to 150 degrees, dissolves one envelope. then swirl the wort and pour it in while wort is very cold, and let it settle for a day.

Does anyone have any experience with this and any further suggestions before I attempt it? :?:
Thanks,
Jerry :
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Last edited by JerryCraft on 21 Aug 2014, 07:29, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #11 made 11 years ago
Jerry,

Gelatin works very well and is cheap. Once the producers of it find out that brewers are using it, the price will rise!! Anyway, YouTube has videos of various ways to bloom the gelatin. Here is one below.

http://youtu.be/cYaVaCyT2yY?list=UUU0O8 ... I8h2pOWYtw
Last edited by BobBrews on 21 Aug 2014, 19:49, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #12 made 11 years ago
JerryCraft wrote:...any further suggestions before I attempt it? :?:
There are quite a few worries in post #10 unfortunately Jerry :dunno:. Bottling is a lot different from kegging.

I can't spend the time now on explaining the worries/errors but I know there are many members here that have the knowledge to address one/more or all of those worries so...

:luck: ,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 21 Aug 2014, 21:47, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #13 made 11 years ago
Still short on time sorry Jerry but I'll try and do a fast answer here before I have Friday beers (and start thinking of more worries :)).

Here's what I was thinking of yesterday...

1. First step towards fixing clarity issues is to do a 90 minute good rolling boil.

2. Use Irish moss, whirfloc, koppafloc or something similar in the boil. These are negatively charged.

3. If kegging, you can cold crash the fermenter and use other finings that are positively charged such as gelatin, isinglass, PVPP etc and/or filtering if you really want to.

4. If bottling...

What is worrying me here is that in this situation, is that you have gone from primary, to secondary and you will still have to go to most likely, bottling bucket and then from bottling bucket (if bulk priming) into fermentor. That's four transfers and everyone of those is exposing you to risk. I'd really prefer to see you forgetting about finings post-boil. Try the 90 minute boil first and check locally that there is nothing majorly wrong with your water. Just do a gentle transfer from fermentor to bottling bucket and go from there.

The other thing is that your beer has been sitting in a fermentor and primary for a while now. If there is any oxygen allowed in tehr, that is not great. Also, you have cold crashed and this makes working out how much to prime by quite difficult. I think you are going to be best to bottle the beer cold and reduce the priming rate accordingly. This cold-crashing can also shock the yeast into dormancy resulting in failed priming.

What I'm saying here is don't put so much emphasis on clarity at this stage of the game. Explore the options above first and do gentle transfers. Determine the cause of any haze before worrying about it. (eg is it protein haze?)

Finally, let your beer lager/condition in the bottle. In other words, this beer could have been bottled about two weeks ago and now be heading into some cold conditioning.

Hope that helps a bit. That was pretty quick for me :lol:,
PP
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Post #14 made 11 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Still short on time sorry Jerry but I'll try and do a fast answer here before I have Friday beers (and start thinking of more worries :)).

Here's what I was thinking of yesterday...

1. First step towards fixing clarity issues is to do a 90 minute good rolling boil.

2. Use Irish moss, whirfloc, koppafloc or something similar in the boil. These are negatively charged.

3. If kegging, you can cold crash the fermenter and use other finings that are positively charged such as gelatin, isinglass, PVPP etc and/or filtering if you really want to.

4. If bottling...

What is worrying me here is that in this situation, is that you have gone from primary, to secondary and you will still have to go to most likely, bottling bucket and then from bottling bucket (if bulk priming) into fermentor. That's four transfers and everyone of those is exposing you to risk. I'd really prefer to see you forgetting about finings post-boil. Try the 90 minute boil first and check locally that there is nothing majorly wrong with your water. Just do a gentle transfer from fermentor to bottling bucket and go from there.

The other thing is that your beer has been sitting in a fermentor and primary for a while now. If there is any oxygen allowed in tehr, that is not great. Also, you have cold crashed and this makes working out how much to prime by quite difficult. I think you are going to be best to bottle the beer cold and reduce the priming rate accordingly. This cold-crashing can also shock the yeast into dormancy resulting in failed priming.

What I'm saying here is don't put so much emphasis on clarity at this stage of the game. Explore the options above first and do gentle transfers. Determine the cause of any haze before worrying about it. (eg is it protein haze?)

Finally, let your beer lager/condition in the bottle. In other words, this beer could have been bottled about two weeks ago and now be heading into some cold conditioning.

Hope that helps a bit. That was pretty quick for me :lol:,
PP
Thank you so much for your response and insights.
In preparation of this batch, there was a full 90 minute rolling boil.
I used Whirfloc in last 10 minutes of boil.
I used Reverse Osmosis water amended as noted in the recipe. City water here is close to unusable.
I will be bottling.
SO on to the rest of the ferment....
The transfer to secondary, I understand, is controversial. I did the transfer when the yeast was still mildly active producing some CO2. I went from a 6 gallon bottle to a 5 gallon bottle to reduce the head space, and the gentle transfer released some more CO2, thus I believe adequately purging the head space in the secondary. The lock bubbled for several more days. The wort is now quite nice appearance although mildly hazy.

I could bottle as is. The taste would not suffer at all. Only the appearance.
The original brewer of this recipe kegged the product. He routinely uses gelatin with this Kolsch yeast (Wyeast) as it tends to remain suspended.
I would argue with him but he has won several competitions with this recipe.

As you note, I am a bit concerned about adding gelatin at this point which would expose the headspace to oxygen for a day, and then again when bottling.

I may just go ahead and bottle and see if it settles more in the bottles. I do not intend to enter it into competition anyway, so the result will be a learning experience. (I usually put two bottles into plastic soda bottles with screw top caps. These serve as indicators for successful priming. The bottles remain flaccid if priming fails, and become firm if successful. The beer keeps quite nicely in the plastic for a few weeks, but not longer. So I use these up first.)

I plan to bottle, probably tomorrow, so if anyone has any further comments or suggestions, I am open until then :)
Cheers,
Jerry
Last edited by JerryCraft on 22 Aug 2014, 23:53, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #15 made 11 years ago
Hope the bottling went well Jerry :peace:,

One thing I should have thought of earlier was your yeast strain. I just found the following here.
This powdery strain results in yeast that remain in suspension post fermentation. It requires filtration or additional settling time to produce bright beers.
You can still filter if you bottle but if you are lazy like me, I wouldn't worry about it unless you were comping.

Enjoyed having another look through your pictorial btw :thumbs:.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Aug 2014, 18:25, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #16 made 11 years ago
Hi Jerry,

I saw a commercial version before I brewed mine (3 Pines Kolsch, the only commercial one I have seen, pretty tastey) and was very surprised at how clear it was in the bottle after what I've read about Kolsch yeast but it only took the slightest bit of sediment to get in the glass to cloud it up.

Anyway I took some pics of my brew last Friday. Thought you might be interested.

It took 20 days for the krausen to go down so I planned to bottle on day 21 regardless. I cooled it down to 10c for 3 days leading up to that and luckily on day 21 the krausen settled. The pics where taken at 12 days in the bottle. Im only into my 6th AG brew so Im still pretty impatient :yum: I had to be very careful not to get any sediment in the glass. Its clarity is probably in line with my other beers at the same age which all cleared up alot given more time, which isnt easy :drink: You'll notice there's alot of sediment in the bottom of the bottle, it may have been one of the last ones to be bottled, but either way they where all cloudy. Ill leave them to condition and carbonate for another week or 2 and then i'll put them in the keezer to hopefully compact the sediment even more.

I also filled my first keg with the Kolsch so I'll be keen to see how that looks and tastes. Its been in the keg for 2 weeks and now chilling in my keezer.

I would have posted earlier but I developed a nice man flu over the weekend so my beer got a reprieve.
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Post #17 made 11 years ago
OK the results are in.
The Kolsch is bottled.
Pre-bottling, there was a slight hint of DMS aroma.
The beer was somewhat cloudy.
Now after 5 weeks bottle conditioning, the taste test.
The beer is marvelously effervescent. I can no longer detect any DMS aroma nor flavor.
The brew has cleared considerably and there remains only a slight haziness.
Perhaps I should have used the gelatin as recommended after all.
I would drink this over most commercial beers.
Thank you all for your support with this endeavor!
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Post #18 made 11 years ago
I used gelatin in the keg and it was amazingly clear. The clearest I have ever seen my beers. In the bottle is pretty clear but I had to be very careful when pouring even after 6 weeks. Very nice beer but I think the kegged one tasted better. Glad to hear you had such a success with your firsts.
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Post #19 made 10 years ago
Holey buckets, JerryCraft, your pictorial is the best I've seen to date. Thank you. My daughter has encouraged me to do one but I cannot top yours. As for the Kolsch, I had similar questions and results about the haze and bottling but I let it be and got great tasting beer with a little haze. I recently tried making an American Pale Ale with Kolsch yeast and got very interesting results (Whirlfloc took care of much, if not all haze) - after a repeat with some hop adjustments, I'll pass it on.
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