Well now the dust and trub is settling and the fermentation is well under way.
It was my first brew and wasnt expecting things to go to plan so I'm sitting happy to have it under belt and excited to see how it turns out.
I have to learning expirences to imrpove next time around then my focus will turn to the fermentation and moving to kegging.
Two areas to improve;
1) Mashing temp needs to be maintained better. I'm guessing this is the main reason my OG was way off as it was down around 61-62 for a 25-30mins period as I struggled to sort the burner out. I think my figures wernt helped by using the pot lid to help reach strike and boil too.
2) Chilling- I made a crap wort chiller so I'll need to combine with an ice bath to get the chill on. Its all about being more organisied and making small tweaks etc.
Also used more hops than NRB's recipe prescribed. Only on the flavour end through.
Will do another this weekend as I picked up a pair of Glass carboys on the cheap.
Next just have to look at carbonation then bottling.
Cheers
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Congratulations jed 
Sounds as though you did really well. Those low temps won't harm that recipe and the extra flavour hops should be
.
After a few brews you'll get everything sorted. Chilling though will probably goet harder for you as you'll probably start drinking earlier on each brew
. Probably nothing can be done about that 
.
PP
Sounds as though you did really well. Those low temps won't harm that recipe and the extra flavour hops should be
.After a few brews you'll get everything sorted. Chilling though will probably goet harder for you as you'll probably start drinking earlier on each brew
. Probably nothing can be done about that . PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #3 made 14 years ago
For sure I need to get a nice stack of beer. Problem is everyone wants some. Perhaps I can give them bad beer so they lay off me.
I missed the OG (meant to be 1.058 and only got 1.044.) next time it'll be on course!
I missed the OG (meant to be 1.058 and only got 1.044.) next time it'll be on course!
Post #4 made 14 years ago
Yes, give them bad beer .
I have to race out the door jed but on the next brew do as many measurements as you can as a single reading can often be wrong. Have a read of this post and try and eliminate as many of the problems listed there before your next brew.
PP
.I have to race out the door jed but on the next brew do as many measurements as you can as a single reading can often be wrong. Have a read of this post and try and eliminate as many of the problems listed there before your next brew.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 28 Nov 2011, 17:34, edited 4 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Woohoo!! Tasted the first brew on the weekend and it was pretty good! Glad I didnt stick straight to NRB's PA recipe and just loaded in my hops!
On the nose exists a shy hint of pine and grapefruity hop aroma underlined by a rich malty undertone. First taste reveals just a hint of tropical fruits before a fairly sweet toffee malt avalanche before I nice stiff kick of bitterness. Its a bit short so it will be interesting how it develops.
Anyway it turned out my low OG was due to measurements being off on pot volume. So I have another brew fermented and conditioning and ready to bottle once I get a chance.
Wanting to try an IPA maybe even cloning something like Green Flash.... anyone got a recipe which would be similar with what I can get here in Auckland NZ?
On the nose exists a shy hint of pine and grapefruity hop aroma underlined by a rich malty undertone. First taste reveals just a hint of tropical fruits before a fairly sweet toffee malt avalanche before I nice stiff kick of bitterness. Its a bit short so it will be interesting how it develops.
Anyway it turned out my low OG was due to measurements being off on pot volume. So I have another brew fermented and conditioning and ready to bottle once I get a chance.
Wanting to try an IPA maybe even cloning something like Green Flash.... anyone got a recipe which would be similar with what I can get here in Auckland NZ?
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Hey there Jed,
Thanks for letting us know how you went. All sounds great - very nice description!
I'm not too sure on the Green Flash clone. The best thing to do would be to Google for it (e.g. "Green Flash clone") and see if you can find a few recipes. If you do find one or a few that look good, you can post them back here and we can help you scale them etc.
Nice job!
PP
Thanks for letting us know how you went. All sounds great - very nice description!
I'm not too sure on the Green Flash clone. The best thing to do would be to Google for it (e.g. "Green Flash clone") and see if you can find a few recipes. If you do find one or a few that look good, you can post them back here and we can help you scale them etc.
Nice job!
PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #7 made 14 years ago
Sweet, just started listening to the Jamil show cloning the Green Flash about so I'll keep a note pad handy and take some notes. First issue I'll have is sourcing the right hops and what types to swap with.
Post #8 made 14 years ago
That's a great way to go Jed .
Taking the time to gather good quality info makes everything else easy. Let us know what 'notes' you take and we'll be able to come up with something great that will help other brewers as well.
I'm looking for a good IPA recipe as well
. Never heard of Green Clones so please let me know how good you think it is. (I really like the way you were able to describe your first AG above 
).
PP
.Taking the time to gather good quality info makes everything else easy. Let us know what 'notes' you take and we'll be able to come up with something great that will help other brewers as well.
I'm looking for a good IPA recipe as well
. Never heard of Green Clones so please let me know how good you think it is. (I really like the way you were able to describe your first AG above ). PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #9 made 14 years ago
I had the pleasure of tasting this San Diego Green Flash West Coast IPA a few months ago on tap here in NZ. It changed my life.
Anyway here are the details:
Batch: 6gal (22.7L)
Alc: 7.3%
OG: 1070
FG: 1014
IBU: 95 (to be honest I thought it was higher)
Grain Bill (I'll need to convert to my equipment but have queries first; see below)
US 2 Row - 6.3kg
Crystal40 - 600g
Carapils - 600g
Mash: 35mins -
This is where I came unstuck and thought I'd go 60mins as I don't sparge it could hurt my effciency.
Strike: 67C and Mash-Out 76C
Boil - 90mins
Hop Schedule-
90mins - Simcoe 14g
60mins - Simcoe 7g
60mins - Columbus 7g
30mins - Simcoe 7g
30mins - Columbus 7g
15mins - Simcoe 21g
15mins - Simcoe 21g
10 mins - Cascade 28g
0 mins - Columbus 14g
0 mins - Simcoe 14g
Dry Hop
14g Amarillo, Columbus, Centennial, Simcoe and Cascade
Yeast/Fermentation
Pitch at 22C but cool and leave for 3-4 days before ramping up temp before finish.
Issues/Queries/Notes:
1) Mash
Time- 35mins sounds too short to me considering the high gravity? It would affect my efficiency so I’m going to have a stab in the dark as my expected efficiency to get convert my bill size.
2) Grain: Would my NZ Pils base malt be the closest I can get to US 2 Row? I’m wanting a very clean malt background.
3) Hops:
- Which hops to substitute for Simcoe as it is the key component it the main one to get right
- IBU – I haven’t got any software so this will be need to be considered.
4) Yeast- I’ll need to use US-05 instead of the prescribed so there are two issues.
A)Will it finish up and attenuate well enough?
B) High start gravity; Two options as I don’t want to pressure the yeast with this gravity.
Option A – Two sachets
Option B – Make a starter
5) Yes I am over my head! But up for a challenge.
Thank you all for you help in advance!
Cheers
jedski
Anyway here are the details:
Batch: 6gal (22.7L)
Alc: 7.3%
OG: 1070
FG: 1014
IBU: 95 (to be honest I thought it was higher)
Grain Bill (I'll need to convert to my equipment but have queries first; see below)
US 2 Row - 6.3kg
Crystal40 - 600g
Carapils - 600g
Mash: 35mins -
This is where I came unstuck and thought I'd go 60mins as I don't sparge it could hurt my effciency.
Strike: 67C and Mash-Out 76C
Boil - 90mins
Hop Schedule-
90mins - Simcoe 14g
60mins - Simcoe 7g
60mins - Columbus 7g
30mins - Simcoe 7g
30mins - Columbus 7g
15mins - Simcoe 21g
15mins - Simcoe 21g
10 mins - Cascade 28g
0 mins - Columbus 14g
0 mins - Simcoe 14g
Dry Hop
14g Amarillo, Columbus, Centennial, Simcoe and Cascade
Yeast/Fermentation
Pitch at 22C but cool and leave for 3-4 days before ramping up temp before finish.
Issues/Queries/Notes:
1) Mash
Time- 35mins sounds too short to me considering the high gravity? It would affect my efficiency so I’m going to have a stab in the dark as my expected efficiency to get convert my bill size.
2) Grain: Would my NZ Pils base malt be the closest I can get to US 2 Row? I’m wanting a very clean malt background.
3) Hops:
- Which hops to substitute for Simcoe as it is the key component it the main one to get right
- IBU – I haven’t got any software so this will be need to be considered.
4) Yeast- I’ll need to use US-05 instead of the prescribed so there are two issues.
A)Will it finish up and attenuate well enough?
B) High start gravity; Two options as I don’t want to pressure the yeast with this gravity.
Option A – Two sachets
Option B – Make a starter
5) Yes I am over my head! But up for a challenge.
Thank you all for you help in advance!
Cheers
jedski
Post #10 made 14 years ago
Looks good jedski.A little hoppy for my taste but go for it!
US-05 attenuates very well,too well sometimes,so that should be good.I doubt if you need to do a starter,at least I never have and get good action in 5-6 hrs max.
It is generally best to pitch your yeast at the same temp as the wort,and it is better to pitch at you cooler temp and then ramp up,rather than pitch,cool ramp.The cooling process can put you boy's to sleep and then have to rewaken all grouchy like
A 35 min mash is quite short,most here will go with a minimum 60 minutes and many like 90 minutes.
US-05 attenuates very well,too well sometimes,so that should be good.I doubt if you need to do a starter,at least I never have and get good action in 5-6 hrs max.
It is generally best to pitch your yeast at the same temp as the wort,and it is better to pitch at you cooler temp and then ramp up,rather than pitch,cool ramp.The cooling process can put you boy's to sleep and then have to rewaken all grouchy like
A 35 min mash is quite short,most here will go with a minimum 60 minutes and many like 90 minutes.
AWOL
Post #11 made 14 years ago
Anyone used Southern Cross? Isn't much info on NZ hops but I'm thinking of giving this puppy a go.
Fingers crossed I can get something semi decent.
Also what free software is there floating around that has IBU calculations included. that stuff confuses me
Fingers crossed I can get something semi decent.
Also what free software is there floating around that has IBU calculations included. that stuff confuses me
Post #12 made 14 years ago
BrewTarget is nice software and it's free, the guy that wrote/maintains it hangs out over at HBT. BeerSmith2 is also free for the 30 day trial.jedski07 wrote:Anyone used Southern Cross? Isn't much info on NZ hops but I'm thinking of giving this puppy a go.
Fingers crossed I can get something semi decent.
Also what free software is there floating around that has IBU calculations included. that stuff confuses me
---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 21 Dec 2011, 21:03, edited 4 times in total.
WWBBD?
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #13 made 14 years ago
Bit short on time tonight jed. Should have more time tomorrow to see if we can tune up the quantities etc.
Between now and then, can you post or link the source of this recipe as there isn't much to go off on the hop side of things.
Cheers PP
P.S. Totally agree with Lylo on 56 and the mash time. Go a 90 minute mash.
Whilst pilsner is usually a two-row barley. US-two row almost always means a pale ale malt i.e. slightly darker.
Between now and then, can you post or link the source of this recipe as there isn't much to go off on the hop side of things.
Cheers PP
P.S. Totally agree with Lylo on 56 and the mash time. Go a 90 minute mash.
Whilst pilsner is usually a two-row barley. US-two row almost always means a pale ale malt i.e. slightly darker.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #14 made 14 years ago
That's cool PP
Here's the link http://hopville.com/recipe/47308/americ ... -ipa-clone
Just tried beersmith2 wow that is impressive, wasnt a big fan of brewtarget but really like brewsmith cos it is easy to use.
Going with Southern Cross ftw
Here's the link http://hopville.com/recipe/47308/americ ... -ipa-clone
Just tried beersmith2 wow that is impressive, wasnt a big fan of brewtarget but really like brewsmith cos it is easy to use.
Going with Southern Cross ftw
Post #15 made 14 years ago
Just FYI, according to the hopville page, the second 15 min simcoe addition is actually Columbus
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #17 made 14 years ago
Thanks for posting the source Jed. This really helps.
There's so much to learn when you are starting out scaling all-grain recipes. Here's a crash course and some answers to a few of your questions.
What free software should you use?
You asked what the best free software around is. A team from BIABrewer has spent a long time examining all the software out there and it is a bit of a minefield. Existing software is either too simplistic to be useable or too difficult to use correctly. All of them do not handle hop calculations well except for ianh's BIABrewer Designer. (Ian's spreadsheet is not a scaler though.)
Because of the above, it was decided to turn the very basic spreadsheet that exists on BIABrewer.info ("The Calculator") into something a lot more 'credible'. This update version of "The Calculator" will probably be released as the "BIABacus."
I would advise that you firstly get familiar with the first sheet of the existing calculator on this site. I've used all the software around and despite it's simplicity, it actually scales recipes very well and scaling is exactly what you need to do with your recipe.
The Hopville Recipe
When starting out in all-grain, you not only have to find software that has integrity, you also have to learn what recipes have integrity. There's a post here by BIABrewer that shows some things to look for in a high integrity recipe.
The Hopville recipes fall down on a lot of integrity points. New all-grainers innocently use free software/sites such as Hopville to put in recipes and they, with good reason, think they are doing a good thing and that the software they are using will look after them and give the right numbers. Notice though, how baldwin, the poster of this recipe, posted quite a few recipes but they were all two years ago and there were no comments made? baldwin would have finally moved onto better software and who knows the quality of the recipe if it could even be interpreted? And it can't..
As soon as I saw that this recipe had no individual AA% for each hop I knew it would be impossible to do a decent interpretation let alone an accurate one, so I decided I would go and look for another one. Here's what I found...
Let's use this Recipe Instead
You'll see it looks generally the same as the Hopville recipe, however we have a lot more information to work with.
What you need to do now...
Jed, what I think would be best now would be for you to ask in the thread Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment... for the above recipe to be converted.
You'll need to tell us...
1. Your kettle shape and diameter (or how many litres/gallons your kettle evaporates in an hour)
2. How big your kettle is.
3. How much wort you would like to get into your fermentor.
I'll keep an eye on that thread and will look after you there seeing as I have been following your thread here.
Keep using this thread to ask general questions though.
See you in the other thread when you're ready.
PP
There's so much to learn when you are starting out scaling all-grain recipes. Here's a crash course and some answers to a few of your questions.
What free software should you use?
You asked what the best free software around is. A team from BIABrewer has spent a long time examining all the software out there and it is a bit of a minefield. Existing software is either too simplistic to be useable or too difficult to use correctly. All of them do not handle hop calculations well except for ianh's BIABrewer Designer. (Ian's spreadsheet is not a scaler though.)
Because of the above, it was decided to turn the very basic spreadsheet that exists on BIABrewer.info ("The Calculator") into something a lot more 'credible'. This update version of "The Calculator" will probably be released as the "BIABacus."
I would advise that you firstly get familiar with the first sheet of the existing calculator on this site. I've used all the software around and despite it's simplicity, it actually scales recipes very well and scaling is exactly what you need to do with your recipe.
The Hopville Recipe
When starting out in all-grain, you not only have to find software that has integrity, you also have to learn what recipes have integrity. There's a post here by BIABrewer that shows some things to look for in a high integrity recipe.
The Hopville recipes fall down on a lot of integrity points. New all-grainers innocently use free software/sites such as Hopville to put in recipes and they, with good reason, think they are doing a good thing and that the software they are using will look after them and give the right numbers. Notice though, how baldwin, the poster of this recipe, posted quite a few recipes but they were all two years ago and there were no comments made? baldwin would have finally moved onto better software and who knows the quality of the recipe if it could even be interpreted? And it can't..
As soon as I saw that this recipe had no individual AA% for each hop I knew it would be impossible to do a decent interpretation let alone an accurate one, so I decided I would go and look for another one. Here's what I found...
Let's use this Recipe Instead
You'll see it looks generally the same as the Hopville recipe, however we have a lot more information to work with.
What you need to do now...
Jed, what I think would be best now would be for you to ask in the thread Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment... for the above recipe to be converted.
You'll need to tell us...
1. Your kettle shape and diameter (or how many litres/gallons your kettle evaporates in an hour)
2. How big your kettle is.
3. How much wort you would like to get into your fermentor.
I'll keep an eye on that thread and will look after you there seeing as I have been following your thread here.
Keep using this thread to ask general questions though.
See you in the other thread when you're ready
. PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 22 Dec 2011, 18:52, edited 4 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #18 made 14 years ago
Awesome PP.
Just tried out brewsmith2 and thinking it is pretty (to look at) and easy to use.
I was able to get my brewing equipment numbers all dialled in simple enough and has a great range of NZ hops too.
My only question was my effciency will dip when going to a higher grav and the numbers seem to line up with what I got from our calculator so I'm quite happy!
Just tried out brewsmith2 and thinking it is pretty (to look at) and easy to use.
I was able to get my brewing equipment numbers all dialled in simple enough and has a great range of NZ hops too.
My only question was my effciency will dip when going to a higher grav and the numbers seem to line up with what I got from our calculator so I'm quite happy!
Post #19 made 14 years ago
Yep, there's heaps of great stuff in BeerSmith2 for sure jed
Unfortunately, there are also a few traps that you can fall into and that are quite hard to learn and these can be quite significant. It is definitely not an easy program to learn how to use properly.
If you choose to use BeerSmith2, and want to use it properly and safely, you will need to study (and I do mean study) the BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers as well as all posts made by Pat on the BeerSmith forum.
As to your question as to whether your efficiency will dip when you brew a higher gravity beer, the answer is yes. The BIABacus will be the first software that addresses this* along with many other things.
All I'll say for now is, be very careful when using brewing software.
PP
P.S. Stux's hard work on his CE calculator is being incorporated into the BIABacus to automatically adjust efficiency into kettle based on the gravity of the brew.
P.P.S. The numbers in BeerSmith2 will line up very closely with the existing calculator as BIABrewer.info supplied the numbers and recipes. The biggest problems you'll find are with scaling.
Unfortunately, there are also a few traps that you can fall into and that are quite hard to learn and these can be quite significant. It is definitely not an easy program to learn how to use properly.
If you choose to use BeerSmith2, and want to use it properly and safely, you will need to study (and I do mean study) the BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers as well as all posts made by Pat on the BeerSmith forum.
As to your question as to whether your efficiency will dip when you brew a higher gravity beer, the answer is yes. The BIABacus will be the first software that addresses this* along with many other things.
All I'll say for now is, be very careful when using brewing software.
PP
P.S. Stux's hard work on his CE calculator is being incorporated into the BIABacus to automatically adjust efficiency into kettle based on the gravity of the brew.
P.P.S. The numbers in BeerSmith2 will line up very closely with the existing calculator as BIABrewer.info supplied the numbers and recipes. The biggest problems you'll find are with scaling.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Dec 2011, 21:59, edited 4 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #20 made 14 years ago
x2 to what PP said.
I have been using BS2 since its release and have finally dialed it in so that the numbers match my actual "real world" results. The "BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers" thread here got me headed in the proper direction and after several additional tweaks and fudging some of the settings I have it working at a point that I am confident in most of its calculations. I still do not trust the IBU calculations (a point of contention that all of us no-chillers share) but the other tools are very useful.
Keep in mind that while brewing software is nice, it is very important to understand the math and science behind the numbers and to take detailed notes that will help you to either confirm or adjust the figures that the software spits out.
---Todd
I have been using BS2 since its release and have finally dialed it in so that the numbers match my actual "real world" results. The "BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers" thread here got me headed in the proper direction and after several additional tweaks and fudging some of the settings I have it working at a point that I am confident in most of its calculations. I still do not trust the IBU calculations (a point of contention that all of us no-chillers share) but the other tools are very useful.
Keep in mind that while brewing software is nice, it is very important to understand the math and science behind the numbers and to take detailed notes that will help you to either confirm or adjust the figures that the software spits out.
---Todd
WWBBD?
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
