Post #4 made 8 years ago
Great question Wadey and it looks like Hoover has got you started.

If you get time, can you (or Hoover or anyone else) please keep us informed of what you find works? For example, program, papers you use, printer and affixing method.

We've never had this question come up before so, you doing the above, would be a great help.

Many thanks,
Pat
Are you a "Goodwill Brewer?" Pay forward and Buy Some BIPs ;)

Post #5 made 8 years ago
I've been using premium 32 lb paper, and milk to adhere mine. Works great, unless you put them in a cooler or something.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #6 made 8 years ago
I'd love to learn more on this as well.

Rick, your labels are fantastic! You should add a link to them in this thread.

Can you expand a bit on what you do? For example, I have no idea what 32 lb paper is. Is there a metric equivalent? Is it matt or glossy? Do you print them on a bubble-jet or a laser printer?

Also, how does the milk thing work? (Low-fat, non-homogenised, goats milk? :P).

And what's the problem with the cooler/esky? (I'm guessing that you mean that soaking in icy water will cause them to fail?)

Excuse all the questions. I know all the above might seem obvious to you and Hoover but I'm sure it isn't to Wadey and others like myself.

:salute:
PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #7 made 8 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:I'd love to learn more on this as well.

Rick, your labels are fantastic! You should add a link to them in this thread.

Can you expand a bit on what you do? For example, I have no idea what 32 lb paper is. Is there a metric equivalent? Is it matt or glossy? Do you print them on a bubble-jet or a laser printer?

Also, how does the milk thing work? (Low-fat, non-homogenised, goats milk? :P).

And what's the problem with the cooler/esky? (I'm guessing that you mean that soaking in icy water will cause them to fail?)

Excuse all the questions. I know all the above might seem obvious to you and Hoover but I'm sure it isn't to Wadey and others like myself.

:salute:
PP
Apparently, the metric equivalent for 32 lb paper is 120 GSM. The paper is still matte, but the toner will look glossy against it (relative to standard 20lb/75GSM paper). Can only use a laser printer, as ink-jet will bleed as soon as it gets wet.

Yes, these labels can handle getting wet from typical condensation, but they cannot be soaked and/or put up against a sharp edge of ice.

Even after affixing the label with the milk, they cannot be placed into a holder until sufficiently dried.

It's a minor nuisance, but they sure do come off easily once it's time to bottle a different brew.

Here's a sampler of my labels ...

I ended up turning the IIPA label (seen within the link below) into the label for my Imperial Stout ... which I like better.


http://i.imgur.com/9wrfprB.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also, the Midnight Express is now for Porter.
Last edited by Rick on 06 May 2016, 21:39, edited 1 time in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #9 made 8 years ago
google waterproof inkjet papar, this is what im going to use :drink:

The photo is of my mate Jim, aka Mr Ship. He passed away recently and i wanted to celebrate with him

Post #13 made 8 years ago
What I have done the past two times is fix up a design of some sort of photoshop, print the labels out at kinko's, and adhere them to the bottle using a gelatin mixture. Its super simple. The hardest/most tedious part is cutting out the labels.

Here's the beer and wine I used doing it this way:
Image
Last edited by Karch on 24 May 2016, 05:53, edited 1 time in total.
Post Reply

Return to “General Chit-Chat, Nonsense & Rambles”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 39 guests

cron