Post #26 made 11 years ago
filling 23L jerry with siphon+jiggle attachment
filling 23L jerry.jpg
What method do you use to start the siphon? Submerge the hose in the kettle and block off the end? Something else?
Last edited by ynotnamlac on 21 Nov 2012, 13:45, edited 5 times in total.

Post #29 made 11 years ago
Tsar,

The no chill container (N/C) must be thick walled to begin with. Thin walled containers will collapse when boiling wort is put in. HDPE natural high density polyethylene (HDPE) PP (polypropylene)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... d=redirect

http://www.relianceproducts.com/product ... on/79.html

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... d=redirect


Remember that no manufacturer make's No-Chill containers. We are making do with whatever works. Caution must be taken with the container. It must be safe to store hot wort and not impart any taste or chemical residue. If it's thick walled and is safe to hold water (I) am good with it! Safety is up to you!

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/explori ... ng-117111/ Further links
Last edited by BobBrews on 10 Apr 2013, 20:18, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #30 made 11 years ago
Bob, I remember that 175F is the temperature that all fungus and bacteria is dead, and 160F is the minimum for bad human bacteria.

Just my mind started to work, again
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Post #31 made 11 years ago
joshua,

I am impressed with the fact your that you could remember the numbers. I can't remember my phone number for more than 5 minutes. I guess boiling the wort is over kill but I think it is worth it. I try to let my wort sit a short time before filling the N/C container. I guess I don't have to worry about it cooling to much.
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tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

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Post #32 made 11 years ago
Bob, that is a way to let the "crap" (A technical term) settle, so a whirlpool/screen can clear the wort!!

The Cube will have clearer wort, and the beer will be better!
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Post #33 made 11 years ago
Tsar wrote:Hi guys,

Can I use this type of "cube" :lol: to no-chill?
Image
Thanks
Apart from what Bob and Josh have mentioned, I think the tap is an issue. You want to avoid any taps on a no-chill cube. In other words, you only want one opening on the cube - the top lid. Any other openings/threads/taps etc are asking for unnecessary trouble.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 11 Apr 2013, 16:59, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #36 made 11 years ago
Remember that no manufacturer make's No-Chill containers. We are making do with whatever works. Caution must be taken with the container. It must be safe to store hot wort and not impart any taste or chemical residue. If it's thick walled and is safe to hold water (I) am good with it! Safety is up to you!
I don't intend to rain on everyone's parade here, but is anyone else concerned about chemical leaching from plastics?

I am very interested in trying out the no-chill method, but this raises a very good question about containers. After a lot of reading on this topic, it seems like chemical leaching could be a big problem over time, as most plastics A) leach chemicals regardless of temperature and B) almost none are designed for near boiling liquid. One of the only containers that I've found so far that is affordable, FDA certified and inert at high the temperatures encountered with the no-chill method is an "autoclavable" carboy manufactured by Cole Parmer:

http://www.coleparmer.com/Category/Cole ... HDPE/48796

Nalgene apparently makes some similar containers, but they are exorbitantly expensive.

Has anyone thought of using glass instead? While you have breakage and weight issues, the stability of glass seems like a big benefit over plastic.
Last edited by Firspring on 11 May 2013, 00:25, edited 5 times in total.
Firspring

Post #37 made 11 years ago
Tear.. that container is the famous Speidel.. I have one as a fermenter. Very thick and sturdy. I doubt I'd want to use it as a cube tho. :) Way too expensive. I believe MoreBeer sells one that doesn't have a tap on it.. when available

MadScientist. That unit you are using for your cube looks exactly like the ones I find at the restaurants around here.. They are used for cooking oil. However, the diff, I'd guess, is that mine are very thin.

Firspring.. Glass would be TOOOO subject to exploding by putting very hot wort into them. They are just not made for that. I'd suggest that even the pyrex type, which would be prohibitively expensive, would be suspect. Just too fragile and not designed for this purpose. Also, re Nalgene.. you might want to go to the Wikipedia site and type in Nalgene. Then go down to BPA issues. It ain't necessarily save either. Me... I'm not worried about this issue.. but, that's me. :)
Bill
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California

Post #38 made 11 years ago
Firspring,
Has anyone thought of using glass instead?
Glass? Boiling wort? No way! The glass would shatter even if it was preheated. :argh: Leaching is not a problem if you have approved for human consumption containers. Example.......
Meets UN Packaging Type 1H1 and applicable FDA regulations. Ideal for use with sanitary chemicals, flavorings/concentrates, edible oils, pharmaceutical preps, ag-chem chemicals, NEC photochemical x-ray & electronic diagnostic substances, misc. food & kindred products, powders.
Yes we have no container that is made for no chill but plenty of containers will do it safely. I use boiling water to clean a new N/C container and then I add StarSan to store it just for my satisfaction. After the first brew I just wash and store some StarSan in it to be ready for it's next job. I don't worry because my liver will fail from overuse before anything else will get me. :lol: :lol:
Last edited by BobBrews on 11 May 2013, 01:06, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #39 made 11 years ago
Duly noted about glass.

Regarding plastics though. I think leaching could be an issue at any temp (see the following study on plastic leaching http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3222987/).

Additionally, I called a lot of these manufacturers to ask about the heat ratings of their products (Cole Parmer, US Plastics and Hedwin) and all of them told me that almost none of their products were rated for liquids above 140F (with the exception of a couple of Cole Parmer and Nalgene autoclavable products). Now this doesn't prove that doing so is inherently unsafe, but it certainly gives me pause.

So if one rules out glass and the vast majority of plastics (whether HDPE, HDPP or whatever) what else is there to consider, stainless steel?
Last edited by Firspring on 11 May 2013, 01:27, edited 5 times in total.
Firspring

Post #40 made 11 years ago
Firspring,

I have been using a Nalgene cube and a Winpak's from US Plastics. They hold 212F without a problem. The Nalgene is rock solid but pricy. The Winpak is not as solid but is cheap and serviceable. I use the Winpak for N/C and fermentation occasionally. The people on this forum that use N/C 'ARE' mostly crazy but I think they were that way before hand? Don't blame N/C! :argh:
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Post #42 made 10 years ago
I took some pictures while at Walmart. Although I don't have this jug, I would be tempted to buy two of them, if my two spare 63 mm caps fits them. These are half the cost of the heavyweight ones I bought at usplastics, these are the lightweights. Get what you pay for.
Walmat Primo RO re-filling station.jpg
Walmart Primo 5 Gallon Jug.jpg
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 07 Jul 2013, 04:03, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #43 made 10 years ago
MS, Be Careful!!!! My WallyMart show those jugs to LDPE, Like Milk Jugs.
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Post #45 made 10 years ago
bionut wrote:Hy guys!
Can you take a look at this plastic canister http://www.produsemenaj.ro/canistra-20-" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... binet.html and tell me if i can use it for no chill brewing. I have just heard about this method, and in my country i can't get one made for brewing.
The site say only that is food grade plastic, but not if is suitable for hot liquids.
Or this maybe http://www.produsemenaj.ro/canistra-30-l.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Thanks!
Hey bionut, There is a plastic code that we look for on the bottom of our containers, a #2 (see link)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin_identification_code" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Maybe you have seened it? There is a unicode; U+2674 Only use #2.

:peace:
MS
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 17 Sep 2013, 05:16, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #46 made 10 years ago
I didn't seen it because i want to order online. I asked the shop wht kind odlf material is and now i'm waiting for a response.
Maybe i will have the time to go to a hardware store to look for some HDPE vessel.

Thanks for your reply! :)

Later edit: i forgot to ask if it matters how thick is the wall. Won't the hot, evaporating, liquid cause the cube to explode? :D I didn't find the answers on the other topics.

Post #47 made 10 years ago
bionut,

Just saw this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OhP_1ZHzVc#t=180 The guy does a good job of explaining what he ordered. No one claims that they sell no chill containers? We just use what our experience tell us is OK. It hasn't effected me yet? I don't think? ah... what was I saying? errr...

Or look at this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9hpU3iw4Zo
Last edited by BobBrews on 17 Sep 2013, 23:50, edited 5 times in total.
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

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Post #48 made 10 years ago
I know the videos, i wached the on youtibe before. I have to wait until i go to a store to see woth my own eyes what it says on the cubes. The online store just don't have enough info...

Edit:
I bought a cube, is a 20 liter canister, with the HPDE symbol on the bottom (no number though...i guess is optional).
1 - The walls doesn't feel to thick, could that be a problem?
2 - Also, the cap doesn't say what plastic is made of... should i be concerned, or is self explanatory that is the same plastic as the canister?
I attached a photo of my cube, maybe it can help you to make an ideea.

When i bought this i also bought an 30 liter canister that has a spigot ( but the hole for the spigot is not made, so it is optional), that i plan to use as a fermentor, because of the spigot. I would use it as a no chill cube for the bigger volume, but it doesnt say what plastic is, on the bottom it have just that arrow triangle and the symbol with a spoon and a fork, no number in the triangle, no HDPE (or other) text under it. Do you have any ideea about what can it be made of?
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