I am wondering how to adapt the following hop schedule for no chill. Thanks!
Hops
NAME AMOUNT TIME USE
Amarillo 0.75 oz 60 min First Wort
Amarillo 0.75 oz 15 min Boil
Amarillo 0.5 oz 5 min Aroma
Amarillo 1.0 oz 0 min Aroma
Post #2 made 10 years ago
We did a side by side on this type of recipe a while ago Indieg and found no difference between the chilled and no-chilled beer so don't worry about adjusting. (Results in this post).
You can also find some thoughts here on what things are really important when trying to copy someone else's hop schedule.
You can also find some thoughts here on what things are really important when trying to copy someone else's hop schedule.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 12 Oct 2013, 22:39, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #3 made 10 years ago
Thanks! So if I am reading things correctly, I can just follow normal hopping schedules when doing no chill. Right?
Post #4 made 10 years ago
Indieg,
I made a hop spider and use it for late hops. Search for pictures for a hop spider on this site or the internet.
Remember that if you let the hops go into the no-chill container they will all be isomerized. Not good! If you add those aroma hops at the end of the boil add them to a hop sack or reuse your hop bag and pull the hops before transferring to the No-chill cube.Amarillo 0.75 oz 60 min First Wort
Amarillo 0.75 oz 15 min Boil
Amarillo 0.5 oz 5 min Aroma
Amarillo 1.0 oz 0 min Aroma
I made a hop spider and use it for late hops. Search for pictures for a hop spider on this site or the internet.
Last edited by BobBrews on 14 Oct 2013, 04:54, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #6 made 10 years ago
Yes, no or maybeIndieg wrote:Thanks! So if I am reading things correctly, I can just follow normal hopping schedules when doing no chill. Right?
.The link I gave above has the key points buried in it but it will take you some time to absorb them. Around that time, you would have probably found in a different thread something like the following quote...
My answer would be almost nothing and I know a professionally trained brewer who does exactly the latterWhat's the difference between a no-chiller and a chiller who let's his kettle settle for 40 mins before putting his wort through a plate chiller?
. There are many other ways of treating hops after flame out.I think what is important for us brewers is, when sharing a recipe, to be as descriptive as possible as to how we handle our hops. At this point in time, commercial software or website recipe reports only enable the most primitive method of conveying to others how they treat their hops. The BIABacus allows for a lot more info to be transferred which is excellent but...
Atm, in other software, you don't even know if the brewer you are copying from used an immersion chiller or a plate chiller (when they turned it on) or, even if they chilled.
At the end of the day though, these are small points. As I said above, no one could tell the diff between those two beers that I no-chilled and "chilled". The real point though is to note when the "chill" started and how it was managed.
This is actually a really advanced question that we really don't know enough about. There's lots of theory but not much practical. I think Bob would be the first to agree with me on this...
Seeing as the hop schedule you are copying does not tell you anything at all about what is happening in that brew after flame-out, you can't really copy it. Does that matter in real life?
With amarillo hops, I think not
*PP
* Unless you got the same dodgy batch as I last got
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Oct 2013, 19:39, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
[quote="BobBrews"]Indieg,
Remember that if you let the hops go into the no-chill container they will all be isomerized. Not good!
Lylo says
When I was no chilling I often threw an extra 10G or so into the cube in a sack and had woderfull hoppy flavour and aroma results. Please note though that most of my no chilling was done in the winter and the cube would sit out on the deck in dick freezing temps so the isomerization was kept dow some.
Remember that if you let the hops go into the no-chill container they will all be isomerized. Not good!
Lylo says
When I was no chilling I often threw an extra 10G or so into the cube in a sack and had woderfull hoppy flavour and aroma results. Please note though that most of my no chilling was done in the winter and the cube would sit out on the deck in dick freezing temps so the isomerization was kept dow some.
AWOL
Post #8 made 10 years ago
Lylo,
I expect that all those aroma oils that had no where to go when sealed in a cube and stayed in the wort?
I am sure that that helped make the beer more aromatic. I may have to brew a beer with no bittering hops and all the hops added to the cube just to see what happens? A highly hopped SMASH beer without "normal" bittering? All added in the cube! Stay tuned...... 
I expect that all those aroma oils that had no where to go when sealed in a cube and stayed in the wort?
I am sure that that helped make the beer more aromatic. I may have to brew a beer with no bittering hops and all the hops added to the cube just to see what happens? A highly hopped SMASH beer without "normal" bittering? All added in the cube! Stay tuned...... tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #9 made 10 years ago
Bob, I used a regular bittering and flavour program and just added a small amount to the cube.
AWOL
Post #10 made 10 years ago
Just out of curiosity Bob/Lylo. When you add hops to the cube, do you do so loose or in a sack?
Also, what do you do when it comes to fermentation? filter or just pull the bag out?
I have thought about no chill hopping, but I would feel the need to squeeze the bejeesus out of those hops to get my wort back.
Also, what do you do when it comes to fermentation? filter or just pull the bag out?
I have thought about no chill hopping, but I would feel the need to squeeze the bejeesus out of those hops to get my wort back.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #11 made 10 years ago
mally,
I siphon the wort into the fermentation bucket leaving most of the trub behind. I don't go crazy trying to have clear wort because that trub helps fermentation. Hops continue to isomerize in the cube but if it's only bittering hops its done already anyway.
If I am brewing a hoppy beer I still dump the bittering hops loose into the pot at 60 minutes. Near the time of the late hops addition. I use a disposable hop sack with my hop-spider or my empty mash bag to hold my 10, 5, 0 flame-out additions of aroma hops. I squeeze the hop sack and pull the bag out of the wort as I transfer to the no-chill cube. Some loose hops may go over with the trub? So I don't put any hops in the cube at all.
In years past I added loose hops to the cube thinking that the aroma or late hops would keep all the aroma in the cube and be more aromatic. I have changed my way of thinking and no longer add any hops to the no-chill because the near boiling temperatures will isomerize all the hops in the cube and make it more bitter than I wanted. Also, because I may store my wort for months at a time I don't want all that hop matter sitting in my no-chill cube for any extended time.
So to make a long story short (to late for that) I no longer add hops to the cube. When I transfer out of the cube my siphon is set so that I don't pull up much trub. The beer clears by itself. Any trub in the fermenter is lost with the yeast cake.
Sorry for the long, boring, meandering answer but. I have spent too much time reading PP's answers and something rubbed off on me. Besides, to a new brewer this might be helpful?
It depends? If I am brewing a malty beer that only uses a bittering hop. I dump it into the wort as FWH (First Wort Hop) I don't see the reason to use a sack or anything else. I use Irish moss or a similar product to drag the trub to the bottom. Much of the hop residue sticks to the sides of the kettle anyway. So what it (boils down to) is everything goes into my no-chill that doesn't sink to the bottom or stick to the sides of the pot. The hops are loose in the cube.Just out of curiosity Bob/Lylo. When you add hops to the cube, do you do so loose or in a sack?
Also, what do you do when it comes to fermentation? filter or just pull the bag out?
I have thought about no chill hopping, but I would feel the need to squeeze the bejeesus out of those hops to get my wort back.
I siphon the wort into the fermentation bucket leaving most of the trub behind. I don't go crazy trying to have clear wort because that trub helps fermentation. Hops continue to isomerize in the cube but if it's only bittering hops its done already anyway.
If I am brewing a hoppy beer I still dump the bittering hops loose into the pot at 60 minutes. Near the time of the late hops addition. I use a disposable hop sack with my hop-spider or my empty mash bag to hold my 10, 5, 0 flame-out additions of aroma hops. I squeeze the hop sack and pull the bag out of the wort as I transfer to the no-chill cube. Some loose hops may go over with the trub? So I don't put any hops in the cube at all.
In years past I added loose hops to the cube thinking that the aroma or late hops would keep all the aroma in the cube and be more aromatic. I have changed my way of thinking and no longer add any hops to the no-chill because the near boiling temperatures will isomerize all the hops in the cube and make it more bitter than I wanted. Also, because I may store my wort for months at a time I don't want all that hop matter sitting in my no-chill cube for any extended time.
So to make a long story short (to late for that) I no longer add hops to the cube. When I transfer out of the cube my siphon is set so that I don't pull up much trub. The beer clears by itself. Any trub in the fermenter is lost with the yeast cake.
Sorry for the long, boring, meandering answer but. I have spent too much time reading PP's
answers and something rubbed off on me. Besides, to a new brewer this might be helpful?
Last edited by BobBrews on 15 Oct 2013, 20:25, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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