biabacus' strike temp is way lower than what Northern Brewer

Post #1 made 8 years ago
Hi,

I've just brewed a nice Northern brewer 3 gallon, Dead Ringer IPA biab kit. when I looked at the recipe on Northern Brewer's document it calls for a strike temp of 72.2 C,. But the Biabacus says that the strike temp should be 68.7C.

NB says that my OG should be 1.060, Biabacus says that my OG should be 1.044. What am I messing up here in my biabacus?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #2 made 8 years ago
The BIABacus takes the grain temperature into account, I doubt NB does. You also have the adjustment factor in section X.

Here is my rough translation of NB's recipe.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #3 made 8 years ago
Rick,
I'm baffled. I can't see how you figure the adjustment and how it affects the recipe. And still, my original gravity is 1.060.

Where can I see some manual of how biabacus works. I've struggled with it and am so frustrated.

Thanks

Greg
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #4 made 8 years ago
The adjustment doesn't affect the recipe. You simply choose a different adjustment factor based on how much temperature drop you get on your system. Then, you use this factor the next time you brew ... it'll be right.

Every kettle is going to transfer heat differently, there is no way to predict it the first time for everyone. You must use ballpark figures until your system is learned, then you compensate with the adjustment factor based on brew day results.

"And still, my original gravity is 1.060. "

I don't know what you mean by this. The recipe target is 1.064 (NB's website states this), so 1.06 is .004 under. That's not bad if you ask me. Sections M and O are used for what you achieve on brew day. Section C is for your target OG, from the written recipe.

Structured help is still being written, for now we have to do our best to help each other understand it. It's tough to grasp at first, but worth the time investment.

Be detailed in your questions, and I'll do my best to help you understand it.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

biabacus' strike temp is way lower than what Northern Brewer

Post #5 made 8 years ago
Hi Rick

What I meant when writing about my OG of 1.060 that's what I got, but biabacus said something entirely differently. And what you did definitely changed it to correctly reflect my actual brew. I'm just trying to figure what I need in order for the numbers (biabacus' and my actual) to match. I'll get there.

I'm committed to using this program, I have no doubt that with the talent and resources collectively used that this is the way to go.

Thanks again for your time
Greg
Last edited by gvhorwitz on 29 Jan 2016, 05:36, edited 1 time in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #6 made 8 years ago
In your file Section C has a figure of 1.044 entered. This should be the original recipe OG figure of 1.064.

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #7 made 8 years ago
This is my twist on it.

MS
Dead Ringer IPA - MS.xls
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 29 Jan 2016, 05:40, edited 1 time in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #8 made 8 years ago
To explain further. Biabacus will scale the recipe using the numbers inserted at the top of section C. Either the original recipes OG or your desired OG. When you correct this figure to 1.064 the "What you will use" amounts will closely match the NB recipe. This difference is usually down to conversion and efficiency figures used by the original recipe author being slightly different to the Biabacus.

:salute:

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #9 made 8 years ago
Yeasty wrote:In your file Section C has a figure of 1.044 entered. This should be the original recipe OG figure of 1.064.

Yeasty
A-Ha! There it is.

Thanks all
Last edited by gvhorwitz on 29 Jan 2016, 05:47, edited 1 time in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #10 made 8 years ago
Lol! It is easy, especially when starting out, trying to find where a typo is!

Just getting back to your main question on the strike temp thing...

There are several factors to be considered when trying to determine strike temperature but The BIABacus is the only one that, initially keeps you safe and secondly, forces you to explore this area properly. Any strike water calculator will consider weight of grain, grain temperature and volume of strike water. Some go a bit further and ask for the weight and material of your kettle, which, in BIAB is actually unnecessary as we heat our strike water in our kettle.

The BIABacus is the only software that allows the brewer to consider radiation (Section X - mentioned above). With heavy kettles on heavy burners and stands, your kettle contents can actually get hotter even after you turn the flame off!!! On a thin-walled electric urn, this will not happen at all. The BIABacus default (I hope on the latest version but can't remember) assumes that your equipment is heavy. That way, until you learn your equipment you will end up at strike temperature or below. Ending up below is safe as you can just add more heat. Ending up too high is not so nice.

Make sense?
PP

[center]Oops - Just Noticed...[/center]

gvorhitz, you are an Enthusiast here which means you have made a donation of $25 or more to the site. Even if you hadn't made that donation, you would be able to put your BIABacus file up for us to check before you brew. Make sure you do!

I'm wondering if you used 3458 grams or 2112 grams of grain for your brew? I'm also wondering what your volumes were in Section L. Weights, volumes and gravity are really important. Think of weights as being teaspoons of sugar, volumes as being mugs of coffee and gravity as being the sweetness of the coffee. At the moment, all I know is how sweet your coffee was. I don't know how much sugar was used or how many mugs were made :).

On the next brew, let's make sure we carefully check it for you first. This thread is always a great place to do that. :luck:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 Jan 2016, 23:42, edited 1 time in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #11 made 8 years ago
Hi folks,

I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you guys. That damned thing called work.

I think one of my problems is that I think that I'm not actually inputting the stuff in the right place or the right way.

This is what I think I need (if you can bear with me). I like using the northern brewer kits, they're straight forward and take the stress out of "dotting my I's".

I'm uploading the PDF file that came with the kit. Could you look at it and see what you think should be put in and where it should be put in. Then I can get used to using the biabacus for future NB recipes and eventually "Put on my big-boy pants" and input other recipes that aren't NB kits. I have a few new recipes that I just got from NB, a kolsch and an Irish Red, this way when I use the suggestions you give me I'll do exactly what Biabacus tells me (like a good boy)

Additionally, I'm stunned by the generosity you all show when you use your time and knowledge. Thank you so much.

Greg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #12 made 8 years ago
The file I posted was based on the .pdf for the 5 gallon recipe, and then I scaled it down to 3 gallons for you. I didn't realize there was another .pdf for the reduced volume. But, if you want to see where everything goes ... look at the other .pdf and my file that I posted.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #13 made 8 years ago
I'm short of time Greg but have a look at these threads:

A perfect example of a low integrity recipe.

Does this recipe have integrity? Can I copy it?

Doing the above will give you a solid background on the problems with some recipes and the problems they create, it will also help you understand the Biabacus more. By all means continue to post your recipes for a look over. I'm always happy to give a file a check before brew day but some recipes will always be a bit of a stab in the dark.

:thumbs:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 03 Feb 2016, 02:48, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #16 made 8 years ago
gvhorwitz wrote:I think one of my problems is that I think that I'm not actually inputting the stuff in the right place or the right way...

I like using the northern brewer kits, they're straight forward and take the stress out of "dotting my I's".
Okay Greg, this clearly explains to me why you have had so many troubles.

The situation you are in is actually a complete head-f*&k and is not your fault. You are given a certain amount of ingredients and expect to get a certain result back. Fair enough!

This common situation is a very hard one to explain well and I haven't done it in a while. I also think that most, if not all of us, including me, were looking at your situation from one direction. We all are trained to think that it is the brewer that decides the number of ingredients and hops you will buy and there is a good reason for this.

All-grain "kits", a new arrival in the home-brew market, work from the opposite direction - they give you the ingredients. They have their place, for sure, but they are crude in their assumptions and should not be regarded as being anywhere near accurate. [Some of the other guys above may have already picked up on this bit. (PM me if you have.)]

Greg, can you leave it with us for a day or two? It's been a while since I or anyone else dealt with this situation and I, for one, will find it easier if I can dig up some old answers and re-read/study this thread.

Please read Yeasty's links in the meantime as they will be of great help.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 04 Feb 2016, 01:46, edited 1 time in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

biabacus' strike temp is way lower than what Northern Brewer

Post #17 made 8 years ago
Just at a glance there is plenty of info missing from the recipe that would be necessary to copy it into the biabacus. I'm on my phone so can't try it now but might have some time later today to have a look.

It has a grain bill and a target gravity so that gives you some information. It also gives you a mash schedule.

The only problem with this is that assuming the same grain bill will produce the same beer on different systems is wrong. I made up a grain bill for a mate who has a 3V system the same as for my BIAB and he ended up with a beer about 10 gravity points higher!

The hops is where you basically have to guess as there is no information about how any IBUs the recipe is targeting, what method of calculation they are using or what the aa% of the hops are.

The best you can do is look up the aa% range for each hop and guess.

While the recipes might be a simple way to brew a tried and true recipe they will do your head in trying to learn the biabacus from them.

There are plenty of tried and true recipes on the site that already have biabacus files that might be an easier place to start in understanding it without designing your own recipe.

A good place to start is an understanding that you don't need to fill in every field in the biabacus. There are really only 4 or 5 sections that need to be completed to get things going and you can learn the rest from there as you go!

Post #21 made 8 years ago
Contrarian wrote:Nothing wrong with brewing kits, they are a great way to learn the process without having a bunch of other things to worry about.

Once you take the leap you'll find it wasn't as big as it looked from the other side!
Really ? I can see the attraction but I think a better way to start is with a simple SMaSH recipe. Pale malt and a hop that takes your fancy. The BIABACUS would be simple to work with and you don't have the hassle of trying to scale a recipe with no or little info. Plus you can order what you need so saving waste and not having small bits left over.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 04 Feb 2016, 23:36, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

biabacus' strike temp is way lower than what Northern Brewer

Post #22 made 8 years ago
If you are going to start designing your own recipes then a smash is an awesome way to go and my very first biab was a Maris otter and Amarillo smash.

But depending on you lhbs and whether you have acv as to a mill designing recipes could be more difficult so buying a premise recipe can help you learn the process without having to worry about the extra steps.

Seems to be working for the OP so what's wrong with that?

Post #23 made 8 years ago
Contrarian wrote:But depending on you lhbs and whether you have acv as to a mill designing recipes could be more difficult so buying a premise recipe can help you learn the process without having to worry about the extra steps.
If a HBS is going to the trouble of grinding malts for there kits they can grind malts to order.what's the extra steps ? The Biabacus will give you everything you need, write it down and order it, same as a kit but just what you need.
Contrarian wrote:Seems to be working for the OP so what's wrong with that?
What I'm trying to say is that by going down the Kit route you open yourself up to a whole load of unnecessary work and worry by trying to scale the kit to your equipment with very vague instructions. Where as if you choose a recipe with integrity the scaling is a whole lot easier and you gain lot more confidence in the recipe as fewer if any assumptions need to be made.

I can see where you are coming from Contrarian but I've looked at enough recipe posts relating to kits and scaling that makes me think that they make it harder not easier. Like the majority of the regulars ( :blush: ) we all want to see our fellow biaber succeed with their brews but I've dug myself a few holes in the past trying to sort out a biabacus (and old calculator) file using these recipes and I've come to the conclusion that there are better and easier routes to get you up and brewing good beer.

I'm going to start another thread on this subject as I'm concious of hijacking gvhorwitz's OP, and I think its a good topic for discussion.

:thumbs: :thumbs:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 05 Feb 2016, 06:11, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #24 made 8 years ago
Yeasty wrote:I'm going to start another thread on this subject as I'm conscious of hijacking gvhorwitz's OP, and I think it's a good topic for discussion.
Too right it is Yeasty. I reckon throw it in the "Old Timers" forum so we know where to find the damn thing! Make it good so it becomes a sticky! No pressure though :lol:. I'll see if I can stop Greg's head spinning :shock:.
PistolPatch wrote:All-grain "kits", a new arrival in the home-brew market, work from the opposite direction - they give you the ingredients. They have their place, for sure, but they are crude in their assumptions and should not be regarded as being anywhere near accurate.

Greg, can you leave it with us for a day or two? It's been a while since I or anyone else dealt with this situation...
Smee again :P

How's your head Greg? :nup:

Let's see if I can, and I'm not promising anything, clear things up with a new analogy...

Brewing a Beer is Not Like Baking Bread

Flour, salt, water and a yeast starter (or dried yeast) will make you bread and I, Pat, can give you, Greg, simple weights and volumes so as you can make bread just like me. I will give you the weights and volumes for one 450 gram loaf and you too will get one 450 gram loaf. Simple as that.

I don't want to make brewing beer sound more complicated than making bread because it is and it isn't. For example...

1. When making bread, you can't, after the bake, add a bit more water to the loaf whereas in brewing you can.
2. When making bread you know a given amount of ingredients will produce an x gram loaf whereas in brewing you don't.

What Else is Different?

When making bread, we have no wastage on the flour side of things. In the flour we use, all husks and [can't think of word now] material have been removed. In brewing, we crush a whole grain and many factors come into play into determining how much pure flour our water will freely inter-act and combine with. That's the first loss of ingredient we experience in brewing (and I have been very simplistic with it there) but there are many more, unlike baking. I won't go into them completely here, otherwise it will become confusing. All I'll say is that imagine when you were making bread, after kneading, you were unable to scoop 10% of the dough off the bench-top? In brewing, we all have different bench-tops and scrapers and some work better than others but they can be widely varied so we brewers don't all end up with the same amount of dough in the baking tin as it were. (BIAB brewers will be very consistent btw.) More losses occur in brewing right until we package our beer.

So in brewing, 5 kilograms of flour might give one brewer 5 gallons of beer in bottles whilst it might give another brewer only 4 gallons.

On the salt side of things, we know we need so many grams of salt for one 450 gram loaf whereas, in brewing, we can think of salt as being the hops. In other words in baking, there is basically one type of salt whilst in brewing, there are heaps of different types, all of different strengths, which must be added at varying times to bring about the desired result. Complicated eh? It gets worse though as the effects of the salts depend on how much or how little flour we have 'lost'!

Can you use kits?

Greg, you can use all-grain kits but unlike Fresh Wort Kits, Cold Extract Kits (e.g. Coopers Kits), Hot Extract Brewing or Aeroplane Jelly you can't expect the same results as the all-grain kit manufacturer guy gets if you follow their instructions. For a start, their instructions have no detail (as a few of the guys above have mentioned already and Yeasty will deal with in a new thread I imagine) - they pretty much don't tell you anything in a NB kit :dunno:. Education-wise, you certainly won't learn much about constructing recipes by brewing those kits but...

What We Can Do...

An all-grain kit is convenient and what we can do, show you how to use The BIABacus so as you can have a good idea of how to avoid ending up with a very sloppy or super-hard jelly by using the right amount of water and knowing when and where to add that water.

How's your head now?
;) PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 Feb 2016, 00:48, edited 1 time in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #25 made 8 years ago
Pistol Patch is correct, as usual. I took up baking bread before brewing beer and I heartily agree. There is a little variance in bread ingredients (all purpose flour, bread flour, other kinds of flour and % water content) but nothing close to what we have in brewing. Technique at final bread dough proofing and steam in the oven makes things come out different, but again brewing has tons of variables even after flame out. A kit is just a kit and while you can weigh out separate hops and add them as you wish, you cannot un-mix crushed grains. I'd say that you are guaranteed to get ALMOST the beer described ALMOST every time from the kit. Yuck. That is why All Grain BIAB is the way to go. Make your own 'kit.' Variables remain, but the results are better.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
Post Reply

Return to “BIABrewer.info and BIAB for New Members”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 73 guests

cron