fowlfeatherbrew,
Here's what I wrote just before I read PistolPatch's reply. It is different to his, but I trust it does not conflict. If it does, ignore my input.
The recipe data seems to be complete enough that I would say it almost has good integrity.
Huh?
It doesn’t specify batch volume at a particular point, does it?
Volume of mash, VIB, VFO, VAW, VIP are all different. Without knowing the author’s practice of always meaning volume at a particular stage, there is some uncertainty.
Picky? Yes.
I took a look at your file and I think it needs only two new entries to make it ready for use. Good work so far!
IBUs in Section D (top part) to get the right side of Section D to populate. The IBUs you posted as 146 from the original seem really high to me. Please check that again.
Enter 90 in Section E for mash minutes.
Otherwise, here’s some related comments.
Section B - good data entered, especially
your kettle dimensions
90 min boil
desired VIF
Section C
Single malt used _ left side column shows 14.55 lbs, Was that for the original batch size of xxx?
Does your batch size make sense with the 13.82 lbs on the right side?
Is the EBC entered correct? What happens if let blank? NOTHING
Section C
leave OG empty and natural priming y is good
Section D the hop bill
Single hops type used. That makes this a Single Malt And Single Hops (SMASH) recipe.
There is no weight showing on the right side - this is due to having no target IBU number provided (Tinseth) in Section D top.
What was the IBU number in the original recipe? I doubt that you can get to 146 IBUs with a 5% AA hops and not lose more in KFL without a hopsack! See below.
What was the AA% of the battering hops in the original recipe? I have to ask in advance what the AA% is for hops that I purchase because they vary from year to year and over time after harvest. It makes a difference.
Comments on this site and others indicate that there is generally no advantage to having bittering hops in the boil for any longer than 60 minutes. You do get different weight numbers for the hops if you change the minutes field for either the original or What You Will Use side. It’s your choice.
Section E
For true BIAB, mashing in accord with preferred practices here should be 90 minutes. Even if you are using Section W for a sparge.
Strike temperature derived from grain temperature is helpful, but you should shoot a little low and carefully apply heat to hit the mash temp target, rather than overshot it, especially at 67.2 ºC.
Section G
Be aware that without a hopsack you will have greater Kettle to Fermenter Loss (KFL). If you use one, you won’t need as much water held back in Section W for a sparge to accomplish your desired batch size and OG. But I should defer to PistolPatch on this matter.
With only one addition of hops at a time point longer than 60 min, you will not have much aroma contribution from them in the final product, but that’s the style.
Section I
Mash at 67.2 ºC is fine - remember it as causing the combined mouthfeel and alcohol and sweetness in your product derived from the yeast you choose. A lower math temperature can give a different combination.
How will you conduct the sparge? You can heat the 3 L withheld in Section W in a separate vessel and expose the grains still in the bag (removed from the kettle) to it in a variety of ways. Pour-over or dunk, or a combination, all are a little more work, but feasible. Your choice.
Pitching at 14.4 ºC seems low to me, but it will work.
Section H
Fermenting at 19 ºC is fine. It will take quite a number of days to get to FG, but you can tell by taking aliquots for gravity testing (try to keep sample size small, as it should not go back into the main batch)
Conditioning for 10 days will probably lead to tasting a bottle of green beer. Wait longer if you can.
I don’t pay much attention to ‘consume by’ dates for my beers. Either it is consumed in a shorter time or I keep a few bottles hidden for aging, e.g. honey ales, porters, old ales. I think I had one pale ale that was in decline at 7 months.
Section Q
When you get to packaging time - bottling as shown, priming sugar (corn sugar chosen) can be added dry to individual bottles or pre-dissolved (boiled) and added to the entire batch just prior to bottling. Keep good records on sugar weight and beer volume and desired volume of CO2. Under-carbonated (flat) and over-carbonated are both undesirable.
Finally, to get the degree sign on a Mac, hold down the ‘option’ key and type the number zero. On a PC, hold down the ALT key and press numbers 0176 for one size or 0186 for another.
