Just a quick question, 7.25kg of grain, when soaked in water will take up 23.92L of Volume when Mashing.

Do you Brew with a Double-Sparge/MAXI-MAXI BIAB????

Dryhte - I think Richard (Mad Scientist) has covered a lot of your questions.

However - using the BIABacus I have done a quick check and this says 12L VIF is achievable (1074 OG)
This is without using volume saving methods (hop socks, 90 minute boil) etc.

If you use a hopsock, boil for 60 minutes this goes up to 13L. This is full volume mashing.
If you want to look at maxi-methods you could get more (perhaps 20-30% more). More than that will start to affect quality.

Dryhte (Rob), I have two BIABacus files worked up, atm. The best alternative for using a 29 L pot only produces 18 L of finished (1.074 OG)beer.

As a new brewer I would encourage you to start with a normal recipe with a starting gravity of 1.050.

The best way is to do a full-volume shop method or, if needed, with some pre-boil dilution and/or boil dilutions.

Good on you for looking at a bigger pot. Others here can help you pick out a pot for a gas stove top brew, as I am unsure about the BTU's needed for a 40 - 50 L pot.


~richard

Dryhte, It's no more difficult making a higher gravity beer on brew day. With a 1.074 OG, you would make sure you pitch more yeast, give more time to finish and mature, than a 1.050 beer.

Just was a suggestion to do something simpler on your first brew.

Maybe start a post in the equipment section about the feasibility of using a 50 L pot with a 7kW gaz set. Your original post above requires 30 L of starting water and that grain bill pushing the mash volume up to 36.5 L. So, if the max you will ever do is 20L of 1.074 OG, for example a 40 L pot would work. If you have a 50 L pot picked out, that's great. Make sure your gas will maintain a boil of about 30 - 35 L.

So start with your equipment questions first, e.g. pot and bag, then let's work on a recipe.

Dryhte, as a matter of interest, here are the two files. You can delete the numbers in Section W to turn it into a full volume shop and change the numbers in Section B to suit your new kettle.

balli, Are you referring to ppg? That is points per pound per gallon. Here is a link; http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html

The other abbreviations come from the malting company like this one; http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets ... alysis.pdf

If we really need the get abbreviations, we still need the Teminology!!

Like the Chart at http://www.biabrewer.info/download/file.php?id=1503

Hints entered a 100% in the first field then put in a number that equaled 36 ppg.

You can dissolve a quarter of a pound to make a quarter of a gallon, and take a gravity reading. If it's a 1.036 then it has 36 ppg.

balli1990 wrote:So with any addition like golden syrup, dissolve 1/4 pound in a 1/4 gallon of water (Im assuming us gallon?) measure the gravity and that will give you the PPG.

Yes, U. S. gallons.

balli1990 wrote:so if it came out as 1.045 then the PPG would be 45ppg? enter 100% in the moisture content field and 45 in the PPG field?

No, Keep FGDB set to 100% and adjust the 'MC' until it says '45 ppg', but googling Lyle's golden syrup is saying 36 ppg, so it's bound to be 36.

I just wanted to clarify my last statement. Pure sugar is 46 ppg, that's 100% FGDB and 0.5% MC.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-3.html

Hi all

I am wondering if I can get any input on this receipe. I posted it some time back and was planning to do a small batch however time has moved on and in a flash of excitement I decided to forget all about small pots and gas fired keggles and opted for a 50L Braumeister instead.http://biabrewer.info/posting.php?mode=reply&f=5&t=286# I picked it up a week ago and am currently waiting for the electrician to come (tomorrow hopefully) to install a 15amp socket in my garage and then its a practice run on Friday and brew on Saturday.

I am making plans based on the following:
I have read through Brewing Classic Styles and the BYO Mag article and used those to form the basis for this receipe.

Vienna Lager - SMaSH brew to keep it nice and simple first time,using Vienna Malt and Hallertau hops. I already have purchased both and the AA I entered reflect those of the hops I have.

I am aiming for 46L into the fermenters (23L x 2)but my hops are based on BCStyles which is a lower VIF therefore in the calc the IBU drops from what is in the book, or maybe they use a different formula. I am happy with an IBU of 21 which was suggested by PP in the previous discussion on this recipe.

I will probably do more than one rest during the mash as it seems simple to do with the Braumeister, but I haven't decided yet, I don't think this affects the calc too much?

I have measured the Braumeister and entered them into the sheet, this is the total volume.

The instructions say to add 53L for the mash and from what I have read in various forums it seems most people sparge. This seems relatively straight forward once the malt tube is suspended, so I have allowed 12L for a sparge which puts us nicely on 53L strike water.

Being a fairly novice brewer I am not sure about yeast attenuation, the info on the yeast suggests an apparent attenuation of 83%. It seems to me that the sheet uses this figure to calculate finishing gravity so I thought it probably wont matter much at this stage?

I would appreciate any comments or feedback on any aspect.

Thanks
Ian

Great stuff Ian ,

Would love to spend more time on this but have done my usual trick and written several hours of things tonight rather than the few minutes I originally thought and hoped for .

So, just quickly, firstly I have never downloaded a yellow BIABacus - lol!!!!

All looks perfect with the exception that in Section D, you entered 22.7 L on the top line and 21.0 IBU's on the second line. Normally only one of these fields should really have a value.

I can't write more on this tonight nor probably in the next few days sorry - running behind everywhere. Understanding what drives those first two lines in Section D of the BIABacus is the hardest thing to understand about brewing numbers. Filling out the second line, basically should only be done if you are designing a recipe from scratch or, if you cannot determine the VAW from the original recipe.

Apologies for the rushed explanation. IBU estimates/errors/terminology problems is a very tricky area, Hope the above helps a bit.


PP

Ian, I've attached your yellow file here, as to what I would do. The biggest change is to NOT sparge. You got the room.

I looked at both recipes (the one from the book and from this link). Since you have the book, carefully read the last paragraph on page 23, also per the recipe on page 69 (based on 19 grams of dry yeast for 20.8 L, you will need at least 43 grams. 100 F / 37.8 C is the optimal temperature for rehydration according to this book and "Brewing Better Beer" by Gordon Strong. Do not keep the rehydrated yeast in the water for more than 30 minutes.

20 - 26 IBU is a good range.

I found the recipe via google just fine; http://www.brewtoolz.com/recipes/2121-schloss-hof-lager" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A follow up for Ian

"rehydrating dry yeast"

some good links;
http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://koehlerbeer.com/2008/06/07/rehyd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... yton-cone/

My [MS] 'best practice' for rehydration includes this from Dr. Clayton Cone (THE LINK ABOVE);
QUOTE: "At 95 – 105 F, there is
100% recovery of the viable dry yeast."

QUOTE: "We recommend that the rehydrated yeast be added to the wort within 30
minutes. We have built into each cell a large amount of glycogen and
trehalose that give the yeast a burst of energy to kick off the growth
cycle when it is in the wort. It is quickly used up if the yeast is
rehydrated for more than 30 minutes. There is no damage done here if it is
not immediatly add to the wort. You just do not get the added benefit of
that sudden burst of energy. We also recommend that you attemperate the
rehydrated yeast to with in 15F of the wort before adding to the wort.
Warm yeast into a cold wort will cause many of the yeast to produce petite
mutants that will never grow or ferment properly and will cause them to
produce H2S. The attemperation can take place over a very brief period by
adding, in encrements, a small amount of the cooler wort to the rehydrated
yeast."

Just had another look at your recipe Ian and MS's file. A few things to note... If you are copying a recipe from Brewing Classic Styles then 22.7 L is the figure to put into Section D. That is all you should do in that instance and note that the predicted IBU's will be different from that in the book. This post will explain why.

MS has posted a great file as well and also made some very pertinent comments on sparging - avoid it if all the water you need for your brew can fit into the mash. Doing this will ave you some labour and time.


PP

Thanks PP, I see it now. "Brewing Clasic Styles" uses the Rager formula (page 40).


MS

Thanks both PP and MS

The recipe you found MS is actually mine, it is a draft I put together when I was putting this together as a smaller brew to do on my stove top. That's before I got all excited and bought the Braumeister. Schloss Hof is a palace in Austria, I was bored due to being injured and chair bound and decided to google Vienna and Austria and find something original to use as a name.

The info on yeast rehydration is excellent thanks, I did not consider that too much I just bought 2 x packs as we usually use one for a 23L VIF batch. That may not really be enough anyway but given this is being fermented at a lower temp then I guess I should really add more.

I knew about the different hops formulas and how they come up with different answers for that reason I have decided to stick with just one recipe formulation tool. I played around with both Brewtoolz and Brewtoad but I think I'll stick with the BIABacus. Although I am a novice all grain brewer, it is apparent it is easier to use and gives you much more info than anything else I have seen. edit[and you get excellent assistance on this forum as well]

Given this is my first brew with the Braumeister I am following the instructions to the letter (I am running a trial brew without grain while I type this). It says to only add 53L of water for the mash and then sparge while the malt pipe is suspended (to drain), the sparge tops you up for the boil. Looking at the system I am thinking this may be because you need the headspace for the grains to drain or maybe a full volume mash creates a problem somehow. I cant see why at this stage so I will check that out and if it is all fine I think I will do a full volume mash and drain the malt pipe over another smaller pot and then just add those runnings to the boil. This will certainly save time and would basically be a BIAB

I'm not getting the "yellow" BIABacus comment

I hope to brew tomorrow arvo so will report back.

thanks again

Ian

Ha, that's funny on the internet recipe.