Brew in a solid "bag"

Post #1 made 12 years ago
Reason I haven't been posting here recently is because I have gone all heretical and gone in a slightly different direction.
I found with full volume BIAB I was getting a lot of trub and wasting ingredients due to cloudy wort into the kettle that was ending up with up to 3L of cloudy gunk per brew. Note I say into the kettle, not out of it, as the wort out of the kettle after a good boil and a floc can be as clear with BIAB as any other system. However clearer wort into the kettle (i.e. clearer wort after hoisting the bag) would be a clear advantage for better wort recovery rates.

Problem mostly caused by BIAB not forming a "real" grain bed that allows for recirculation, a bit of a sparge if desired... etc.

I decided to look at a solid sided "bag" method and came up with a bucket-in-urn idea. I works extremely well, and I have sold my 4 BIAB bags :o

It goes like this:
20L $6 handy bucket that fits snugly into the electric urn. The bottom of the bucket has been drilled. Into this goes a kitchen strainer from supermarket (bashed into a pork-pie-hat shape and the handles cut off) :cool: which is wrapped in a bit of voile for better filtering, and secured in place with some silicone hose to provide a fine false bottom the wort must pass through.
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Mash same as BIAB then hoisted gradually on a block and tackle, with a bit of recirculation just using a jug - a cheap pump could be an option - until the wort runs clear, having been "forced" to pass through the grain bed that has formed at the bottom of the bucket.
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Advantages: virtually identical to a soft bag BIAB without having to handle a wet hot bag, similar entry cost, better wort recovery, easy clean up. Also because this is a "double jacket" setup, the mash actually loses virtually no temperature during the mash.

It shares with BIAB the basic idea that it removes the grain from the wort, not the wort from the grain (as 3v systems do)

Just thought I'd share this
Cheers

:kisswink:
Last edited by Beachbum on 28 Oct 2011, 20:31, edited 5 times in total.

Post #3 made 12 years ago
Good Day BeachBum, Your system looks like a good and easy way to see if "Braumeister" style brewing is good thing! Thanks!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
Believe it or not, in the last hour a guy on another forum has published a picture of a bucketbag he has run up on his mother's sewing machine. Now this has got me really interested :argh:
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Last edited by Beachbum on 28 Oct 2011, 21:21, edited 5 times in total.

Post #5 made 12 years ago
We love heretics :P

I think this could be a great idea especially for narrow diameter pots where pulling the bag is much harder than in a wide pot.

Couple of things I'm wondering... Your voille material looks very coarse in the picture. Is it possible your original BIAB bags were too coarse?

I'd also emphasis to people that they need to make sure the bucket is food-grade at high temps.

Great idea mate :thumbs:
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
Yep, that one looks very coarse but I was actually looking at the pics in Bribie's first post here. It might just be an optical illusion or something but my voille is a lot finer I think.

:think:
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
I see what you mean,it does look coarse,although I think that what we see there is his kitchen strainer that he bashed in.Doesn't matter,it does look coarser than any bag material I have seen.
AWOL

Post #9 made 12 years ago
I went to buy Voile yesterday and talk about fine......I did'nt purchase because I thought theres no way that will drain. So I'll keep using my paint straining bag until Ive read more and more people have solved the issue. :dunno:

Post #10 made 12 years ago
Good Day Heller, If you can see daylight thru the bag, or images, It is good for BAIB. Paint strainer bags are good, but do let small particles in to the wort, and may be the husks, that cause tannins when boiled. SO, if you do get that astringent taste, go with a finer cloth for you bag.
Just a idea, that helped my beer!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
The top pictures were actually a "grain bag" from CraftBrewer which is a bit more open weave than voile, but I have a couple I use as hop socks. Together with the strainer in the middle shot they combine to form a fairly fine filter, I guess as good as voile. The bags are fairly big and I'm wondering if they are also the ones sold by paint stores - could well be - but they can be doubled over when folding to make the filter even more dense, might try that.

The pail is polypropylene which is the same stuff used in those UK "Electrim" boilers, actually a bit more robust than Polyethylene. I think that bucket fermenters are polypropylene as well?

After mashing and cleanup the bag can also be used to filter the remaining wort in the kettle which increases yield even further.

Just as a bit of background, before trying the "solid bag" method I built a lauter tun
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Using a $60 false bottom :o and:

BIAB as normal but with a thicker mash
hoist bag and tip all the contents (grain and any wort already collected)into lauter tun,
recirculate with a jug pouring gently onto the grain bed until the wort is running clear - and boy was it running clear
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do a fly sparge with very hot water until the runnings hit 1015
collect wort in a couple of bowls
pour all back into urn and boil as normal
It made great wort but I won't be doing it again as the hassle just isn't worth it to me. It's basically what a lot of the micros do, using one pot as mashtun and boiler, with a lauter tun on the side.

The process took me about 6 hours and at the end of it I had more vessels to clean than the kitchen at the Calcutta Railway Station :evil:
So the false bottom has now been sold and back to a single pot system :thumbs:
Last edited by Beachbum on 29 Oct 2011, 07:40, edited 5 times in total.

Post #12 made 12 years ago
Just to bring the thread up to date, although I was getting better efficiency and trub control with the "brew in a bucket" system, that's at the expense of having to do a sparge to extract the goodness that is left trapped in the grain in the bucket. So by the time I've done the extra drain and the increased boil length to bring the wort level back down to what it would have been with "pure" BIAB I felt I was really no further ahead.

So I'm back to BIAB. :argh:

Total cost of experiment <$20 so I'm not complaining.

but sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.... (J Wayne) :clap:

Post #13 made 12 years ago
good to have you back :)
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5/7/12

Post #16 made 12 years ago
I've just done a BIAB Extra Special (Strong) Bitter for a comp in January - sort of along the lines of a Fullers ESB and easily hit the expected 1060 with 80% efficiency so well pleased. I find that a good mashout at 78 degrees while agitating the mash, and a good squeeze seems to yield good results. I've also gone up from 60 min mash and 60 min boil to 75 mins for each step and that seems to tweak things slightly for the better. I adjust the initial strike liquor a tad upwards to take the increased boil time into account, and this seems to encourage better yield rather than frigging around sparging etc at the end of the mash.
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