New to recipe design - your feedback wanted please :-)

Post #1 made 12 years ago
I am getting into BIAB brewing and trying to have a crack at as many different styles as possible to find out what I like and what I can create.
I have come up with the following recipes after lots of reading around. Can anybody see any glaring errors or suggest any tempting modifications to them? There are three in total. Should I have posted them separately?

The Pacifist – Pacific Pale Ale (EDIT: Length 23L)
Grain Bill:
4kg MO
500g Pale Wheat Malt
Hops:
60 mins --Pacific Jade 20g 12.5%aa & Campden Tablet
15 mins -- 30g each Pacific Jade & Wai-Iti 4.5%aa & Irish Moss
Flameout -- Pacific Jade & Wai-Iti 20g each
Dry Hop -- Wai-Iti 20g
IBU’s: 53.8
EDIT: Planned OG 1.044
Ruby Rye Ale (EDIT: Length 23L)
Grain Bill:
4kg MO
1kg Pale Rye Malt
250g Weyermann Carared EBC 40-50
500g Pale Wheat Malt
50g Roast Rye malt
Hops:
60 mins Chinook 20g 13.3%aa & Campden Tablet
Citra & Chinook 30g each 15 mins & Irish Moss
Chinook & Citra 20g each flameout
Citra 20g Dry Hop in FV (use bag – remove after 7 days)
IBU’s: 67.7
EDIT: Planned OG 1.054
Rah-Rah Rasputin Imperial Russian Stout (EDIT: Length 10L)
Grain Bill:
3kg MO
100g Chocolate malt
300g Dingemans Aromatic Malt
100g Weyerman CaraMunich type 3
200g rolled oats
250g cocoa powder (as dark as possible)
500ml coffee made with 50g Lava java or similar
Hops:
EKG 6.9%aa 20g @60 mins & Campden
EKG 6.9%aa 20g @ 30 mins
Irish Moss @ 15 mins
EKG 6.9%aa 20g @ flameout steeped for 20 mins
IBU’s: 55.1
EDIT: Planned OG 1.070

Thanks for reading - Al
Last edited by Algernon on 14 Aug 2013, 22:51, edited 4 times in total.

Post #2 made 12 years ago
Hi Algernon

Looks ok to me, but the proof is in the brewing so get on with it !! :lol: and report back.

Don't forget that mash temp, the yeast strain and brew temp can all have a huge impact on the final result so when designing recipes remember to include this in your plans.

One thing though, what's with the campden tablet added with your first hop addition ? :think:

Yeasty
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
Al, there are two important things missing from your recipe reports - the planned original gravity and volume of ambient wort (this is volume into fermentor plus your planned kettle trub). Most recipe reports lack information on this volume figure even though it its the most critical one.

Also note that Irish Moss should added at 5 minutes not 15.

:peace:
PP
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Al, there are two important things missing from your recipe reports - the planned original gravity and volume of ambient wort (this is volume into fermentor plus your planned kettle trub). Most recipe reports lack information on this volume figure even though it its the most critical one.

Also note that Irish Moss should added at 5 minutes not 15.

:peace:
PP
Thanks PP - those data were on my original notes, but there was a table in between them and the rest so they got left off - my error.
Irish Moss at 5 mins? All my other sources (and they are legion) say 15 mins (some also say to re-hydrate, is that important, opinion seems divided?). I don't want to doubt you, but either the vast weight of internet forum opinion disagrees or I have sampled around 25 non-representative sources regarding Irish Moss. :scratch:

Oh yes, and the CT added in the boil - erm, I dunno really. Looks like I should be adding to mash water, which will occur from now on (unless I can be bothered to try experiments to see if there is a difference in beerjoy depending when it goes in).
Last edited by Algernon on 15 Aug 2013, 07:54, edited 2 times in total.

Post #5 made 12 years ago
Okay, nice work Al...

I see your edits. The wording of 'Planned OG' is absolutely perfect :thumbs: :clap: :salute: :champ:

But the wording of 'length' is no good :sad:. I have run out of time today but remember that in brewing, there are a heap of volume figures. They start with how much water you need and end up with how much actual beer you get. The word 'length' doesn't tell me anything. See what I mean? The only valuable volume figure in recipe comprehension/conversion/scaling/copying is VAW. VAW is the volume of ambient wort I mentioned above.

...

As for Irish Moss, I also thought the same as you until another member here referred me to the actual 'material data sheet' from the supplier. I don't have time to look it up now as Irish Moss is known under several names.

If you do an advanced search under my name here for 'Irish Moss' you will probably find the source. If so, can you post it?

:peace:
PP
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Post #6 made 12 years ago
Hi PP.
Spent a fruitless half hour hunting down this elusive Irish Moss information. All the manufacturers I can find online say 15 mins. A few recipes and blogs say 5 minutes but literally a tiny fraction compared to those that say 15. I did briefly wonder if 5 mins woud be better for a 60 minute boil and 15 for a 90 minute boil, something to do with ensuring the relevant proteins in the wort had had time to boil in a moss-free environment, but it is pure conjecture on my part.

VAW is not something I am familiar with, but it seems like a sensible way to describe your intentions and aims. The length I mention is my final brew length target in the FV.
I am still pretty new to the whole AG brewing thing (I don't even have a brewbag yet, just some net sheet) so getting accurate measurements is a skill I am still working on. At best guess I lose about 5 litres of water during a 90 minute boil and have about 2 litres or less left over after straining my boiler through the mesh sheet.
I am contemplating giving the boiler a good old whirlpool stir and syphoning the wort out from the side to see if it makes a difference. I still get some break material through the mesh the way I have been doing it, but I also lose less wort.
From what I can see, I probably end up with a VAW target of 25 litres, and ought to be looking for a pre-boil volume of around 30L.
I need to work out how much water I lose per kg of grain in the mash as well... so much maths, dammit! I thought brewing was half and half science/art/magic (yes, made of 3 equal halves).

Post #8 made 12 years ago
Mad_Scientist wrote:Why aren't you using the BIABacus?
Still getting used to it. Only been brewing for a few weeks, and only a member here since August.
Last edited by Algernon on 16 Aug 2013, 06:07, edited 2 times in total.

Post #9 made 12 years ago
Algernon wrote: I need to work out how much water I lose per kg of grain in the mash as well... so much maths, dammit! I thought brewing was half and half science/art/magic (yes, made of 3 equal halves).
Just saying, that the BIABacus does all the math.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 16 Aug 2013, 08:03, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #10 made 12 years ago
Algernon wrote:Hi PP.
Spent a fruitless half hour hunting down this elusive Irish Moss information.
I saw this this morning and spent a half hour too before work trying to find the paper :roll:. From memory, it actually had the different break amounts depending on the time added. Have no idea how I find it now :dunno:.

I'm short on time tonight but Mad Scientist is correct in advising to use the BIABacus. It will take you a beer or two to get your head around it but the design of i means that you don't have to know anything about brewing numbers. Efficiency, evaporation and trub losses are all auto-estimated. As y our experience grows, you can alter the defaults if necessary.

I've been helping alanem with the BIABacus from this post on. Maybe reading that will be of help?

What we can do here in this thread, if you give us your kettle dimensions, is put one of your recipes above into the BIABacus so as you can get a feel for it. It's much easier than it looks at first glance.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Aug 2013, 17:43, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
I suspect this is getting to be running before I can walk, it being my 8th brew and all. Still, aim high, especially since I harbour a quiet ambition to go part time on my day job and brew beer as a paying hobby one day.
So I downloaded the BIABacus files and had a poke about. Then my head hurt so I had a beer and watched TV for a bit. Then I came back to it this morning and LO! it all made much more sense.
Those other posts you directed me to were also helpful, especially the "entering your recipe" walkthrough.

My pot is a big old 70L SS pan. It's 45x45cm which is nice and easy to calculate I guess. I still have the box it came delivered in, with a bit of insulating foam in the bottom of it. It dropped 3 degrees C in 90 mins last time I used it on a mash, but that was half sized as I was using up some elderly spraymalt as well. Prior to that it dropped 2 degrees over 90 mins with a grain bill of 5kg mashed in 20L of water. Since I have to pick the damned thing up and move it around I try to keep my total mass under 30kg for safety. I almost had a serious accident with a heavier load the first time I used it! :headhit:

Now I am looking at BIABacus I wonder how to tweak my settings to allow for that. Alternatively I guess I could leave the pot on the stove and drop the box over it - leaves it open at the bottom, but heat rises, right? One less chance to tip hot sugary liquid all over myself has to be a good thing.

It's telling me to use 40L of strikewater - this seems like a very dilute mash for 4.5kg of grain - will it be ok like this?

Post #12 made 12 years ago
Well, I think BIABacus and I need to have a little chat. Once I have taught it the error(s) of its ways I am sure we will work well together. I am not too cross about it in the end though. Not bad for a first try working together.
The 40 litres was way too much. My losses were about 9 litres, so in the end I got 8 litres of free beer. My efficiency must have been high though, as I have 31L of 1.030 wort at 49C, which equates to 1.041 at ambient temps according to the calculator I used. If it ferments down to around 1.010 I should have a mild easy drinking hoppy ale at around 4% so happy days.

How would I go about modifying the data for my reduced losses? Is it as simple as entering a new value in the section X evaporation bit?

It's all cooling now, including the 2 DJ's of extra beer :thumbs:
Clearly extra beer = experimental beer, so I guess no dry hops for one of the DJ's, and for the other one a slug of Brett yeast I have been saving for a time like this. Should I pitch pure Brett or use normal yeast, then drop the brett in for a secondary fermentation?

So many questions, I know. Sorry about that, still lots to learn. Thanks for all the help though folks :salute:

Post #13 made 12 years ago
Al, I didn't realise you were going to be brewing straight away as we could have checked your file over first. Can you post your BIABacus file up here now so we can check things over?

The first worry I have is that your water losses are so low. On a 90 minute boil, with your kettle size (the same as mine), you should have lost around 10 litres in evaporation alone on an average day. Make sure you don't boil with the lid on and have a good rolling boil, not a simmer.

Your kettle trub management is good so your trub losses should be lower than the BIABacus default unless you happened to put a Y beside 'Hoposock' or 'Whirlpool' on Section G. You can, as you have guessed, also over-ride any defaults in Section X.

One other worry is the measuring of gravity at high temperatures. On the second sheet of the BIABacus, you'll find a 'Hydrometer Temperature Calibration' section. It has a red warning there that says, 'Take hydrometer readings as close as possible to ambient temperatures.' Follow this advice. Firstly, high temps can actually crack a hydrometer. Secondly, the more you move away from ambient temps, the more likely your reading is to be distorted.

Take another reading after you aerate and just before you pitch so that the wort is cool and mixed nicely. Then fill out the numbers in Sections L and M as best you can. After you have done that, Section P will display your kettle and fermentor efficiencies.

I've no knowledge on the Brett stuff so I can't help you on that one sorry.

Anyway, post your file up and that will make it easier for us to spot any worries.

Good on you :peace:,
PP
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Post #14 made 12 years ago
Wonder if your definition of rolling boil is different from mine. I reckon if a column of bubbles of steam is pushing up over each of the gas rings and the whole lot is churning it's rolling. If it's all just kind of swirling about but not really bubbling then it's a simmer.
I will confess to a certain amount of lid action. What can I say - I'm a partial lidder. It's on but to one side, ten litres of condensation in the kitchen will be a problem as we have all our pots and pans on open shelving near the ceiling. It's a problem which can be fixed with a Q-max cutter and a length of extractor ducting in due course.
So it turns out the temperature corrections are not that great, and my beer will be weak sauce. now it is cool, the sample in the jar says 1.036. Should still make 3.something so it's not bad at all. I need a nice light table beer for my stocks anyway.
Brett yeast is Brettanomyces, it's one used for some weird sour Belgian type beers. Rumoured to ferment some of the otherwise unfermentable sugars left over after normal fermentation. I figured what the hell, I have 2 extra DJ's of beer and a weird freaky yeast going hungry - let's play.
Now to try to attach that xls file...
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Post #15 made 12 years ago
Al, glad to see you got the file posted ;).

I'm short on time for the rest of the day but will leave you with the following... 2 litres of evaporation is much too low. Either you measured the amount of water going in at the start incorrectly or your boil is not string enough. Have a look at...

Video or rolling boil 1
Video or rolling boil 2
Good info on the boil

Don't worry about the beer being light. Light all-grain beers turn out really well.

When I get more time, I'll mention a few tweaks to your file.

Later ;)
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Aug 2013, 09:30, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #16 made 12 years ago
As often happens, thoughts came to me after a good night's sleep.
1. I wonder if my initial measurements of water were out because I "calibrated" my measurements using a 5L plastic container and COLD water. Now I think about it, with the boiler turned up to full heat, the water I was using from the tap was at 60C and the plastic container did look a little more stretched than before. I can check this fairly easily using a measuring jug which doesn't warp with heat.
2. Looking at my beer containers, especially the 2 DJ's I got at the end, my filtration and trub management are shockingly bad. I have about 3cm of trub settled at the bottom of each DJ, and 2cm in the FV itself. The FV I am less bothered by as it is domed, so you do see more crap round the edge and it is not a solid layer right across the bottom. To rectify this will require tools and equipment I don't yet have, but are almost as expensive as the damned pot was. I am hoping to borrow the tools. There are a billion threads online about fitting push-fit ball-taps and hop-stoppers to ss pots so I feel like I have already done it in my mind, just need the bits. I think once I have a decent hop filter in place I should get clearer runnings but perhaps lose a little more wort as I will have dead space in my pot.
3. Light beer? As my good lady wife pointed out, I have been planning a table beer for a while, so it looks like this is it :-)

Post #17 made 12 years ago
Howdy Al,

Firstly, did you check out the above links? If so, I hope that answered the rolling boil question. If you didn't have a rolling boil going, this could have also contributed to your trub problem which we will get to in a minute.

I think the plastic container is about 100% likely to have caused your woes. Firstly for the reason you gave and secondly, it is quite probable that the 5 L containers aren't even 5 L. You'd be surprised at how inaccurate labeling and markings are. The BIABacus makes volume measurements really easy...

Look at Section S. On your brew, if you were using cold tap water, all you would have had to do is fill your kettle to a depth of 24.8 cms (9.76 in). Or,if you were using hot water from the tap , as you did, you would just fill the kettle to a depth of 25.3 cms (9.96 in). So buy a stainless steel ruler from the hardware before your next brew. (Note that section T allows you to measure headspace instead of depth.)

Also, be careful if using hot water from the tap. Some hot water systems can add a bit of unwanted flavour/chemicals to your brew. Instantaneous gas hot water heaters are fine though.
Algernon wrote:To rectify this will require tools and equipment I don't yet have, but are almost as expensive as the damned pot was.
No fancy tools are needed. Use your BIAB bag as a hop sock. (I am assuming your BIAB bag is of the correct porosity. If you have a magnifying glass, you want it to be 30 to 40 threads per cm.) Secondly, give your brew time to settle before you transfer it. Finally, do your transfers gently. (How large is the hose you are transferring with?) There is actually no need for any fancy equipment. In fact, often these will just cause you problems such as clogging.

Problem with your File

See in the BIABacus file you posted, in Section C on the first line, the 1.053 you typed in needs to be on the left hand side. Type this in and you will have the correct hop bill appear on the right hand side of Section D.

Not to worry as this little error will probably be in your favour on this brew ;).

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 18 Aug 2013, 17:45, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #18 made 12 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Howdy Al,

Firstly, did you check out the above links? If so, I hope that answered the rolling boil question. If you didn't have a rolling boil going, this could have also contributed to your trub problem which we will get to in a minute.

I think the plastic container is about 100% likely to have caused your woes. Firstly for the reason you gave and secondly, it is quite probable that the 5 L containers aren't even 5 L. You'd be surprised at how inaccurate labeling and markings are. The BIABacus makes volume measurements really easy...

Look at Section S. On your brew, if you were using cold tap water, all you would have had to do is fill your kettle to a depth of 24.8 cms (9.76 in). Or,if you were using hot water from the tap , as you did, you would just fill the kettle to a depth of 25.3 cms (9.96 in). So buy a stainless steel ruler from the hardware before your next brew. (Note that section T allows you to measure headspace instead of depth.)

Also, be careful if using hot water from the tap. Some hot water systems can add a bit of unwanted flavour/chemicals to your brew. Instantaneous gas hot water heaters are fine though.
Algernon wrote:To rectify this will require tools and equipment I don't yet have, but are almost as expensive as the damned pot was.
No fancy tools are needed. Use your BIAB bag as a hop sock. (I am assuming your BIAB bag is of the correct porosity. If you have a magnifying glass, you want it to be 30 to 40 threads per cm.) Secondly, give your brew time to settle before you transfer it. Finally, do your transfers gently. (How large is the hose you are transferring with?) There is actually no need for any fancy equipment. In fact, often these will just cause you problems such as clogging.

Problem with your File

See in the BIABacus file you posted, in Section C on the first line, the 1.053 you typed in needs to be on the left hand side. Type this in and you will have the correct hop bill appear on the right hand side of Section D.

Not to worry as this little error will probably be in your favour on this brew ;).

:peace:
PP
Cheers PP :thumbs:
Right, rolling boil I think I had going on, lots of churning and burbling, my pot goes over 3 rings on the gas hob, one of which is a wok-ring so pretty huge and burny.
As for the 5L container I didn't trust it in the first place, so I calibrated to a line with a 2L water jug first, so I was probably nearer the truth than I would have been otherwise, but the flexing with hot water was noticeable. I did wonder what those numbers were in the BIABacus... from now on I can just measure down from the top of the pot and get a pretty accurate idea of how much is in there. Does it take into account the temp of the water? If so that is clever stuff! Looks like it does - measure 19.7cm from the top to the surface for my strike volume. Haha - no more titting about with piddly containers working out my volumes.
Hot water comes from a combi-boiler, heated on demand, not stored in a tank in the roof with a dead rat floating in it, so that should be fine.
Not sure how much difference the location of the 1.043 is, as it is a recipe I pulled out of my arse anyway, so if the software wants a few more hops or a few less it's fine, since there is no benchmark to compare it to other than my amateur guesswork of "yeah, that looks about right, let's find out". EDIT: I had another look at the info and I notice it modified the amounts of hops to ensure the target bitterness was achieved, so it DID offer an improvement, even though it was a made-up recipe.

Well, yeast was pitched last night at around 24c which is as cool as it would get upstairs. I could have taken it to the cellar to cool a little more, but I am not opening my brew up down there. I pitched, lidded, airlocked and then took downstairs with a clear plastic bag over it. It's 20c down there pretty constantly.
Thanks so much for the help with working out how to use BIABacus, it isn't initially an easy thing to look at, but it starts to make sense after a while. There are still plenty of sections I have no idea about, but we can look at those later on.

many thanks, as I said
Al
Last edited by Algernon on 18 Aug 2013, 18:47, edited 2 times in total.
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