Bought my nice new Buffalo boiler from Nisbits (£170) - arrived last week (as it arrived they dropped the price by £30.00 :( )- had to wait for the BIAB Bag and ball valve which arrived Wednesday.
'Wet Run' - boiler works and gets to a boil.
Fitted new ball valve (after punching hole).
Fitted tubing to thermostat as per instructions in this forum.
First full volume (23L) brew today.
Heat to mash temp fine .... mash - heat to mash out @ 76c still fine.
Pull the bag ..... and start boil
Power light goes off at 95c :(
Test fuse/supply all is fine ... boiler just does not work :(
Quickly set up stove-top copper - brew saved - £170 new boiler now scrap :(
Post #2 made 10 years ago
Hi Niimus,
Not an electrician, but it have done a little mods on my own electric boiler, so might be able to help.
What are the symptoms?
- Does it power up at all?
- Do you get a Power on (LED)
I am sure between us (me, you and the rest of the members on here) we can get something figured out.
Not an electrician, but it have done a little mods on my own electric boiler, so might be able to help.
What are the symptoms?
- Does it power up at all?
- Do you get a Power on (LED)
I am sure between us (me, you and the rest of the members on here) we can get something figured out.
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- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain
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Post #3 made 10 years ago
Has your burco got a safety cut out ? it might be underneath or under a cover plate. You may have to short it out to get a full boil. I'm a propane brewer so you might want to wait it one of the electric brewers chips in.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #4 made 10 years ago
My buffalo used to do the same Niimus before I modified it. From memory, there's 3 parts that can cause thermal cutouts ( which yours sounds like).
1. There's an over temp cutout mounted on the back of the element that you need to bypass or move far from the heat source( I bypassed mine). Its ceramic and easily found.
2. There's a metallic thermocouple that's connected to the temperature dial. Move this away from the heat also and make sure the temp is dialled up fully.
3. There's a thermal fuse that sits inside a black sleeve. I think I just moved this away from the heat also. Its possible that current through this can generate enough heat to trip it but I don't think its caused me any problems.
If your modifying safety devices like this just make sure nobody will ever plug it in dry(keep it well away from kids). I removed the plug from mine when I was working abroad for a few weeks last year.
Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk
1. There's an over temp cutout mounted on the back of the element that you need to bypass or move far from the heat source( I bypassed mine). Its ceramic and easily found.
2. There's a metallic thermocouple that's connected to the temperature dial. Move this away from the heat also and make sure the temp is dialled up fully.
3. There's a thermal fuse that sits inside a black sleeve. I think I just moved this away from the heat also. Its possible that current through this can generate enough heat to trip it but I don't think its caused me any problems.
If your modifying safety devices like this just make sure nobody will ever plug it in dry(keep it well away from kids). I removed the plug from mine when I was working abroad for a few weeks last year.
Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk
Post #5 made 10 years ago
Yetti - No power - no led ;(
Lars
2. There's a metallic thermocouple that's connected to the temperature dial. Move this away from the heat also and make sure the temp is dialled up fully.
'insulated' that with some silicon tubing
After it failed I disconnected everything, tested the plug 13amp fuse etc.
Then added 10L cold water (circa 10c) and tried it again - no luck just the same so not a thermal cutout issue ...
3. There's a thermal fuse that sits inside a black sleeve. I think I just moved this away from the heat also. Its possible that current through this can generate enough heat to trip it but I don't think its caused me any problems.
Might be the fuse - I'll take a look tomorrow...
Was going to update the over temp cutout to 130c or so ... but no use if it does not work at all....
Thanks all for your responses
Lars
2. There's a metallic thermocouple that's connected to the temperature dial. Move this away from the heat also and make sure the temp is dialled up fully.
'insulated' that with some silicon tubing
After it failed I disconnected everything, tested the plug 13amp fuse etc.
Then added 10L cold water (circa 10c) and tried it again - no luck just the same so not a thermal cutout issue ...
3. There's a thermal fuse that sits inside a black sleeve. I think I just moved this away from the heat also. Its possible that current through this can generate enough heat to trip it but I don't think its caused me any problems.
Might be the fuse - I'll take a look tomorrow...
Was going to update the over temp cutout to 130c or so ... but no use if it does not work at all....
Thanks all for your responses
Post #6 made 10 years ago
Niimus,
I envy you. Starting on a new voyage. Believe me. You will enjoy the ride!
I envy you. Starting on a new voyage. Believe me. You will enjoy the ride!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
Niimus, it will be your thermal fuse. I had the exact same issue on my buffalo on brew day #2Niimus wrote:Yetti - No power - no led ;(
Lars
2. There's a metallic thermocouple that's connected to the temperature dial. Move this away from the heat also and make sure the temp is dialled up fully.
'insulated' that with some silicon tubing
3. There's a thermal fuse that sits inside a black sleeve. I think I just moved this away from the heat also. Its possible that current through this can generate enough heat to trip it but I don't think its caused me any problems.
Might be the fuse - I'll take a look tomorrow...
Was going to update the over temp cutout to 160c or so ..s
Happened just as I was reaching my boil and bang. Dead as a door nail. As you, I had 4 pots boiling in my kitchen to try salvage things. So great minds must think alike!
Anyway you can remove the Thermal fuse altogether or upgrade as I did to a 172 degree one.
As mentioned by Lars also good to upgrade the thermal switch, that won't cause a dead urn but does cause intermittent cutouts mid boil so can be annoying.
Just google "buffalo urn thermal fuse mod" or "thermal cutout mod"
Lots of good tutorials with pics around on how to do it, mainly on jims beer forum from memory.
One thing though if you do upgrade the thermal fuse Don't solder the new one in. Soldering temps have a tendency to blow the fuses as well. They are crimped in place so when replacing do the same.
Good luck and I'm sure brew day #2 will run a lot better.
Edit
These are the 2 items to upgrade. I got mine from eBay, but electronics stores stock these also (as I found out later). Only a few $ so not expensive at all.
KSD301 130c NC thermal Cutout switch http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KSD301-130-C" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 497&_uhb=1
172 degree 250v 10A thermal fuse - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-Microte" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 042&_uhb=1
Last edited by bundy on 11 May 2014, 07:14, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #8 made 10 years ago
Success - shorted the fuse and all is good now ...many thanks for your help!
Post #9 made 10 years ago
Another happy customer 
I ask a question, go to bed, and all is sorted before I wake.
I love this forum, a true 24/7 family
I ask a question, go to bed, and all is sorted before I wake.
I love this forum, a true 24/7 family
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- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain
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Post #11 made 10 years ago
Very nice
Enjoy, glad you are back on the road and sorted
Enjoy, glad you are back on the road and sorted
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- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain
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