Element scorched badly

Post #1 made 10 years ago
Hi everybody,
new ebiaber here, long story short...i've setup a new rig with 2 "near" low watt density element (2 x 2kw 220v elements, 77watt/square inches), 100 litres stainless steel pot and a basic regulation panel(triac dimmers).

After a couple of test boil with simple water i've done 2 batches, first batch (Amarillo APA) went well,i had low efficiency due to grain crush very large (0,075), but elements after boil were clean with just a little lime on it that scrubs easily. Second batch i try a difficult beer, a very strong Imperial IPA (9° 120IBU) and i do fine crush (0,037" on a barley crusher clone) but something went wrong.

Here the elements after putting the beer in the fermenter.
Image
Image
Doesn't look good? :)

I didn't smell any sign of burnt odor during mash and boil, and also the element doesn't smell at all.
I've taste the final product before pitching the yeast and it didn't taste good, but surely doesn't taste burnt!
So i don't know if i've to dump the batch, we'll see.

I scrub the elements and they are fine, i've to do an hard job with mild acid and lots of scrubbing with metal pad, but the element are now clean

My question is? What can i do for the next batch to avoid this situation?

Things different from 1st to 2nd batch:
1) very fine malt crush instead of large malt crush
2) pilsner malt in the recipe, not present in the first batch
2) protein rest at 52° C (125F) and temperature ramp to 68°C/154F, not done in the first batch
3) add dry malt extract near the end of boil without dilute first (my bad), not done in the first batch

I've always stir while elements are power on, but this 2nd batch the mash was VERY thick! I've ended with a 1,098 OG and 77% efficiency from biabacus.

I've searched and read a lot about protein rest to be the cause (protein buildup and burning on the element during mash ramp). Also read about stepping the power of the elements instead of going full blast during ramping....

What do you think? Any help will be greatly apprecciate


Thanks
Adriano
Last edited by blitz on 10 Dec 2013, 22:07, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #2 made 10 years ago
Hi blitz,
I have setup with a 5500w heat stick and I scorched a batch of barleywine (22 lbs of grain in 10 gallon pot!) because all of the wort below the bag evaporated out during the mash without me realizing it. The bag was so full that little if any wort was able to drain down to the heat stick. I have 5 gallons of very smokey tasting barleywine now!

Do you know if the elements were submerged in wort the entire time of the mash?
MMD21

http://www.essentialbrewinginabag.com/

Post #4 made 10 years ago
i use 2 X 1500W elements in my 70 liter pot. minimal schorching usualy. lots of lime though.
from what you discribe, i would guess that that DME is what coused that black burnt layer.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #5 made 10 years ago
Hi guys,
thanks for the inputs.

I taste a sample of Imperial Ipa after 5 days fermenting, it wasn't disgusting but four different friends can taste and smell a "smokey" flavour, is not bad at this stage but is present.....hope it lower it's intensity in the final beer.

Done another batch today, weizen beer.

1) crush: 0,040/0,044 instead of 0,035 on the barley crusher
2) skip protein rest
3) always stirred during temperature ramp for mashout (bag raised) and preboil, i stop stirring when the water begin to boil
4) no dme involved this time

Here the result after brew day (90min boil)
Image
Image
Cleaned in 5 minutes with just hot water and a green pad (don't know the right word :P), and finish the hardest part with a metal pad, they shine like before.

I'm like a mule, i want to know why this happen, so next batch will be a pilsner and i'l try protein rest without changing anything else, we'll see.
Last edited by blitz on 12 Dec 2013, 07:09, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #6 made 10 years ago
I use a concealed element, but get variable scorching as you have seen too.
I would be interested to see if you can pinpoint any reasons.

I always presumed it was to do with the crush (excessive flour) and gravity (although a higher gravity may also be linked to higher flour rate)?
As an anecdotal example; if i brewed a less than 1.050 recipe I wouldn't get much scorching, but higher than 1.050 possibly would.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
i wouldn't work so hard at getting those elements clean. it's mostly lime build up.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #8 made 10 years ago
Does anyone have any other ideas on how to stop the elements burning as I get it on every brew unless I stir constantly all the way through mash and up to the boil. Otherwise I end up with the same burnt elements. It would be nice to pin point something as when I first started brewing I didn't have the problem but now I can't brew without taking the extra precautions. It makes my brew day a lot more involed now. :-(

Post #9 made 10 years ago
Hi,
done another Biab with this setup, very high gravity one (ended to 1092 OG) with 10kg of Pilsner/Maris Otter and 1,5litre of LME, no schorching at all!

The secret for me, as you say, is to stir everytime heat is applied, also i didn't do a protein rest.

When i added LME i turnoff the elements, stir very well and after that turn elements on.


I will work on a recirculate setup that eliminate the need for stirring :)
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Post #11 made 10 years ago
I've read somewhere that when temperature is below boiling point, wort around the element "stalls" ( don't know if is the right english word) and temperature raises locally around it and wort burn.
When boiling point is reached convective movements generates in the wort/water and take away heat from the elements and recirculate wort around it.


I think this is true or partially true, because my wort schorced in temperature ramps if i didn't stir.



Hope that a pump that suck away from the element and drop wort inside the bag resolve this issue, i don't want to stir forever :D
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Post #13 made 10 years ago
blitz wrote:Hope that a pump that suck away from the element and drop wort inside the bag resolve this issue, i don't want to stir forever :D
Be very careful! What you will find if you pump too agressively is that the wort cannot flow back through the grain bed and bag quick enough, causing an airpocket under the bag. This in turn can cause caviatation around the element causing the wort in the vicinity of the element to instantly burn and scortch (ask me how I know....). The only way to prevent scortching when running the pump at more than a trickle is to stir aggresively so the grain remains in suspension and the wort can flow back through the bag fast enough to keep the pump fed and prevent an air pocket under the bag. Kind of counter-productive, huh?

---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 16 Mar 2014, 22:59, edited 2 times in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #14 made 10 years ago
Thanks Thughes, I've readed carefully your posts about pump problems, and i'm a bit worried about it....however i've to find a solution, stirring during temp. ramps is a pain.

I've seen these little pumps (solarproject) that output from 6litres/hour to 11 l/h, maybe i can fine tune one of this to do the job, i want to build also a "distributor block", something like this


http://www.electricbiab.com/Media_Gallery.php

There is a picture at the end of the page
Last edited by blitz on 17 Mar 2014, 17:46, edited 2 times in total.
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