Documenting my build

For those with a soldering iron perhaps? :)
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GuingesRock
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Postby GuingesRock » 3 years ago

Sorry Keith, I was just perfecting my machine/post when you posted. Threw out the twin tub idea and went for the upright version.

I like your idea too.

Lets work on this. we could make a fortune ;)

I have the fermenting in the brew kettle covered.

Why not go all the way and charge the machine with CO2 when fermentation is done, and dispense right into the glass.
Guinges

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Postby thughes » 3 years ago

Here ya go boys, have at it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__Q5WUSca4Y

Just be careful that your bag doesn't get caught up in it. ;)
Last edited by thughes on 02 Mar 2013, 04:48, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby UncleBuckO » 3 years ago

Quick question - How did you secure your element to the pot? Did you use a welding spud or go weldless? If you did weldless, did you use Kal's mounting suggestions as far as an enclosure for the element? I am struggling with this in my build & cannot seem to find a good way to house the element (I went the welding spud route).....
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Postby thughes » 3 years ago

weldless, followed Kal's method for enclosure

---Todd
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Postby UncleBuckO » 3 years ago

Thanks....
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Postby UncleBuckO » 3 years ago

OK Todd. Reviving something in this thread since my design is based on this w/ a few minor variations. I have brewed 2 batches on this system now. I have noticed that I am not hitting my pre-boil or post-boil (OG) gravities. I am coming up shy usually by great than 0.004 specific gravity points. My previous BIAB system was incredibly efficient & I made some beers where I ended up w/ higher than expected OG's. This is perplexing to me with my new system. I am using a customized bag from CustomBIAB. Beyond that, I feel like I am missing something. Using BeerSmith2 to assist in recipe formation. Thoughts?
My girlfriend told me she would leave me if I brewed today.....

I sure am going to miss her.

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Postby thughes » 3 years ago

Sorry for the delay in response, still tying up some loose ends from a very busy few weeks.

Thoughts:
- You are not relying solely on recirculation are you? You need to stir things up every once in a while during the mash process. You are doing a mashout?
- How accurate is your thermometer? Are you relying on the probe or are you verifying with a known good thermometer (I use a lab grade glass themo to double check)
- 2 batches really isn't enough to get a "feel" and dial in your system. It took me many runs and good record keeping to get to where I could hit my numbers consistently.

Keep making beer, you'll get her dialed in eventually!

---Todd
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Postby 2trout » 3 years ago

Bucko,

I am coming up shy usually by great than 0.004 specific gravity points.


.004 is 4/1000. Did you really mean that?


trout
Last edited by 2trout on 27 Aug 2013, 22:28, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby thughes » 3 years ago

I am assuming he meant four whole gravity points.
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Postby odi3 » 3 years ago

Hi Thughes,

Thanks a lot for posting your build and most importantly comparing using a blanket to using recirc and your comments on the two as well as the difficulties you had with the basket. I have read over ALOT of build threads and people just tend to go one way or another but dont really give insight on the two variations and how they perform.

I just ended up going barebones; no controller box, no pumps, no recirc, no basket, Just a kettle, GFI box and element and it works great. With just a blanket wrapped around the pot, and with the top and bottom still exposed, i lose 1 degree every 20 min in a 15 gallon batch. I plan to get some insulation for top and bottom, just havent gotten around to it yet. To stir, I either use a wine whip lightly or just a paddle and mix every 20 min or so.

As for heating, I just turn the element on 100%, until i hit mash temp,(if i go over i just mix with wine whip on max to lower temp, i can remove about 1 degree per min) dump grain in, mix put lid on and come back every 20 min or so. pull bag and turn element back on to boil.

Thanks again Thughes!
Check out my 15 Gallon eBIAB here:
http://www.londonbrewers.ca/blog

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Postby Mad_Scientist » 1 year ago

Hey Todd, I am very much interested in building an electric controller much like yours, but without the use of a pump. IYO, would this be fesable? Would do the "Bobbrews method" mentioned in post #53.

I found a P-J schematic that closely matches what I think is basic for me.
This first drawing here;
Single Element BIAB 30A PID

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-p ... ms-382286/

Can you share your schematic or drawing?

MS

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Postby joshua » 1 year ago

MS, those look good, with one exception...

The 2 Heater/one PID drawings, are not clear on how the RTD/Thermocouple, run 2 different KettlesImage.

If your doing Small Batches with a Dumb Slow CookerImage or a Hotplate/Kettle and need less than 15 amps@120volts..

This a "Cheap" version, (Don't be concerned about "Sous Vide")Image..

http://qandabe.com/2011/70-diy-sous-vid ... ontroller/

And for our England brewing Mates..

http://forum.sausagemaking.org/viewtopi ... =9&t=11469

I believe Temperature control, is Just Temperature Control.
Last edited by joshua on 23 Mar 2015, 02:29, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby thughes » 1 year ago

Mad_Scientist wrote:Hey Todd, I am very much interested in building an electric controller much like yours, but without the use of a pump. IYO, would this be fesable? Would do the "Bobbrews method" mentioned in post #53.

I found a P-J schematic that closely matches what I think is basic for me.
This first drawing here;
Single Element BIAB 30A PID

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-p ... ms-382286/

Can you share your schematic or drawing?

MS


Hey MS! Glad to see some of the old timers are still around.

I used the "30A 5500 Single Element PID" diagram in that thread and tweaked it a bit to give me a manual controller for my pump. PJ helped me when I had questions, not sure if he is still around there anymore. I never created a schematic, just designed it "on the fly". I'd be happy to answer any questions that I can. I like it becuase I can set the temp I want for strike, turn on the circulating pump, and go measure/grind grain, etc. When I come back to the kettle the water is waiting at the proper temp.

As to feasability, the only thing you need to take into consideration is stratification of temps in the kettle: the temp probe provides feedback in a closed loop to the PID which cycles the element, without constant stirring or circulation it won't heat evenly. Make sense?

---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 23 Mar 2015, 04:01, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby joshua » 1 year ago

THughes Wrote
As to feasability, the only thing you need to take into consideration is stratification of temps in the kettle: the temp probe provides feedback in a closed loop to the PID which cycles the element, without constant stirring or circulation it won't heat evenly. Make sense?


Yep, Check PP's Message at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3233&p=47966#p47962
Last edited by joshua on 23 Mar 2015, 04:53, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby thughes » 1 year ago

Thanks joshua, good to see you're still hanging around here too.

---Todd
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