Fermenting in the Brew Kettle

Post #1 made 12 years ago
PP wants me to this spin off...............................


From here: http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1912

My comment: I thought I’d talk about single stage fermenting right in the brew kettle. It is something I’ve done for my last 15 batches and I love doing it. I single stage ferment for 10 days in kettle with a ball valve, and then keg (or bottle) from the ball valve. The ball valve has a bazooka screen on the inside which works well to keep my leaf hops out of the keg/bottles. I have some smaller stock pots that I use for test batches. These pots have glass lids so I can watch the yeast. For my big kettles with the stainless steel lids, I allow myself to lift the lid slightly, once only, the following morning to check on the yeast.

There’s very little on the net about this. There is a forum thread or two. One or two guys timidly asking if it could be done, followed by a whole lot of put downs, like “should work, but I’d never do it as it would tie up my brew kettle” (get another pot!) and “what’s the point?” One guy made himself a brew kettle with clamps on the lid to seal it and an air trap and proudly posted his pictures. He was pooh-poohed as well, but most of the commenters said you don’t need to seal the lid and you and you don’t need a trap, just let the CO2 “burp” the lid. Poor guy! he’d welded all kinds of clamps to his pot and he was so proud.

Then there was one short post, it’s the one that really pricked up my ears, and I wish I could find it. His post was completely ignored. He said he was busy but he wanted a batch of beer. He put his pot of wort on the step to cool, sprinkled dry yeast on the surface, put the lid on, and left it to ferment. He called it his “lazy beer” and he said “it turned out to be the best beer he ever made”.

The advantages for me are that, there is no fermenting bucket to clean, sterilise and fuss with. No transfer of wort to fermenter. No air trap. Lots of saved time. The brew pot, which then becomes the fermentation vessel is sterilised by the boiling (except the lid, which I heat separately in the oven to sanitize).

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Yeasty Comment: I wouldn't discount this method but I think the point of it tying up your pot is a valid one, A FV costs £10 my pot cost £50. I ferment for around 14 days, sometimes longer so to have a pot out of action for that long is not practical. I can manage to buy 3 FV's but 3 pots no way, I can buy a whole bunch of malt for £120. Another problem could be that a pot may not fit into your Fermenting fridge whereas most FV's will. And is it really a short cut ? you still have to cool and oxygenate.

The biggest short cut I think is No chilling and fermenting in the cube with S04 yeast. You'll be done in a week.

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PP Comment:I don't see a problem at all with GR's suggestion - I love it .

I am going to PM a mod though to get it moved to the advanced section and suggest a different title. (I think the current title should be re-posted with a link to the new thread. Will PM you more on this GR though I'm sure you'll think it's okay.)

There's a few reasons why I think it needs to be moved to the advanced area. The main reason is that new brewers should be taught safe, proven practices. The second reason is that we experienced guys are all lazy and are in the best position to test this stuff out .

You're not alone in your thinking here GR. A few guys here will remember many emails I sent them years ago before this forum even started about my great idea to ferment and dispense from a corny. I never did it because there was too much work and too many problems with the idea. I still have a heap of the crap here though I tinkered up for that project.

Your idea is muchbetter.

Come to think of it, I actually did do a few posts years ago on boiling and fermenting (and even dispensing) in the same vessel but I dismissed these myself as I was too rule-bound. Kept focussing on how to get rid of the trub at various stages etc etc.

I am wrapped that you have done this GR .

The Advantages

This is brewing with only two main bits of equipment, a kettle and a heat source so...

- No ferementor or fermentor and cube to clean. (How good is that?)
- Only one transfer.
- Time, labour, chemicals and water usage drastically reduced.
- Increased production due to the above.
- Risk/reward ratio reduced more than you may think (see below).

The Disadvantages

- Lots of theoretical advice that says you aren't going to win the comp (but in several styles, you might).
- Lots of theory/anectodotes/judges/people in the know that will tell you that this this practice will produce some dodgy things. I think they are probably right but...

Weighing it all up...

I really think there is a place for this. I have a fellow AG'er who lives up the street. He can't stand diacetyl. I can't stand acetyldehyde. I don't even know what diacetyl is after years of brewing. But, then again, I'll give other experienced brewers a beer I can't drink due to acetyldehyde and they love it - I have silvers from two to five years ago to prove it .

If you bear this in mind, what's the problem with trying this method on your house beer? Surely it's worth a one batch trial at least?

Side by Side

I'm out of my house beer and have two BIAB set-ups so I can do side by sides. I have a glut of cubes here waiting to be fermented but this is definitely going to be my next side by side.

If the one-vessel turns out to be within 90% of my house beer (in my opinion, no one else's), it will make a huge difference to me. Would I try it on a lager or pilsner I'm putting in a comp? Not now.

Great thread GR ,
PP
Last edited by GuingesRock on 19 Jan 2013, 02:31, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #2 made 12 years ago
Good Day Guinges, I have tried the Stockpot Fermentation, The Hop oils stuck to the side of the pot, and a Cold/hot Break, left a nasty aftertaste to the fermented beer.

I now cool overnight, In the stockpot. Then the next morning take some of the wort to start the dry yeast, while I screen the crap for the pot into the Fermenter. Then add the yeast nutrient/DAP, aireate, and add the yeast.

Close the fermenter, get it to the right Temperature, and leave it until the Krausen drop(3-5 days), raise the temperature to drive off the nasty Yeast Crap(3-4days), and go on to Crash cool.

Not a lot of work, but the entire process IS 2 vessel........

________________________________
Single Vessel BIAB is all I need....Until we figure out the no vessel technique
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #3 made 12 years ago
Hmmm...I don't find that.

My leaf hops end up floating on the surface to form a thick layer of leaf hop krausen mass. I think that might protect the fermenting wort from the air space too, although the air space should be largely purged with CO2 from the ferment. I don't know. Maybe it's a beer style thing.

I used pellet hops in the small test batches though, and there were a one or two of those I threw away.

All I do know is I really like batch 4, batch 12 and batch 12FRM (decided 12FRM tastes better that 12, It's amazing). So all I can say is leaf hops work very well with this system, and I don't know about pellet hops.

Wouldn't you have the same concerns that you have just mentioned in a normal fermenter any way? I know some people religiously remove the krausen from their fermenting beer, probably for the same reasons you said.

I do bring the temp of the wort down right away after the boil with the chiller to fermentation temperature, but that's to preserve the flavours from the hop bursting.

I don't want to defend this. I can't. I put it out in case anyone was interested. You have a lot more experience however. I think I missed some of your points. I'm sure others will understand exactly what you were saying, so it doesn't matter that I missed the point.

I think PP might have got me in a lot of trouble here and I'm trembling a bit. Oh, it was me that opened my silly mouth!

All I know is I'm very happy with the results, and I wouldn't change it. I started this brewing thing because I missed the English ales and was getting homesick for them. Now I don't care anymore about English beer, it doesn't compare.

It's Friday evening, and I'm off home to have some.

Have a good weekend Joshua
Guinges

Post #4 made 12 years ago
Guinges, Don't you have a 8mm layer of Hot break, or Cold Break??? I found that "dark grain" Break not only looks like "Baby PooP" but leaves an oder, and a Crappy Off-Flavor.

I swirl the fermenter every day to release some C02, and Break up the Krausen, so it falls out.

Doing this seems to help clear the Beer, or at least make a solid layer of sediment.

The fermenter stays in Cold storage, until mostly clear then is drained for Bottling/Kegging.

Not much work, since I am a Lazy SOB/Seppo
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #5 made 12 years ago
I don't know Joshua, I've gone into moron land (in case you didn't notice from my posts :P ) I have to think on the run all week, and it's Friday!

Didn't see any baby poop though. Know what that looks like. Sounds like you do too. Just mass of yeast and hops

I don't want to be stuck defending this as I wouldn't stand much of a chance :lol:
Last edited by GuingesRock on 19 Jan 2013, 16:06, edited 1 time in total.
Guinges

Post #6 made 12 years ago
GuingesRock wrote:I think PP might have got me in a lot of trouble here...
Hahaha.

I'd be a bit scared to try it without using a hop sock and trying to get as much trub out as possible. Last night when writing, getting at least some of the the trub out seemed possible but I was drunk and anything is possible then :P.

Upon more sober reflection, I also realised I actually can't do a side by side on this as I brew outside and in my situation, I can't leave a kettle and stand outside for a week or more. Temp control here would be a big issue too as it's usually just too hot here :sad:.

I'd like to get set up to be able to do small experimental batches on lots of things. I would love to give this a go then though I would at least use a hopsock. The worst that can happen is I might learn something about the effects of trub on the beer. If it tastes awful, I can just give it away, nod my head up and down and say, "This is a very special farmhouse ale." :lol:

I'm conditioned enough to have myself thinking the beer is likely to be dodgy but maybe I'll get a pleasant surprise?

Fun stuff!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 19 Jan 2013, 09:57, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
High Joshua, Brain back a bit today, bit headachey though :headhit: I like that 12FRM a bit too much and was Friday Night.

All I can say is, I know at least two beers that this works well for. One is a very quick hoppy extract IPA that’s delicious (Batch 4) and the other is Batch 12 AG BIAB IPA FRM (free range mash) which is the cream of the crop. #47 on this page http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 0&start=25

If anyone wanted to give it a try and test it out without much effort, batch 4 would be an idea. It could be scaled down to 2 gallons, and made in a spaghetti pot as well. When I make my small test batches in a small pot, I skim the leaf hop/krausen mixture off the surface with a sanitised fine mesh skimmer once only when the 10 day ferment has finished, and then pour the beer into a CO2 purged keg, minus the trub at the bottom of the pot which sits there undisturbed providing you pour off carefully. Theoretically you aren’t supposed to pour the beer through a strainer so you don’t oxidise the beer. Of course you could syphon and bottle also.

I leave the hops in for the entire ferment because many of their healthy components and flavours are only extracted by alcohol, which is why people dry hop of course. I have lots of hops in there so the loss of volatile components from CO2 bubbling them off is not so significant, and as always, I’m trying to keep things simple. http://kenanddot.wordpress.com/2012/11/ ... en-option/

Batch 4:
Heat 3 gallons of water on stove, when it’s a bit warm, turn off the heat and dissolve 2KG Muntons Amber DME and 2KG of any old Light DME. Bring to boil. As soon as it’s mostly stopped foaming (hot break) add 5oz Cascade dried leaf hops and boil them for 15 minutes. Then immediately add 3 refrigerated gallon containers of ozonized spring water from the grocery store to start cooling. Finish cooling however you like. I put it outside on the doorstep (winter here). When it’s down to about 26C sprinkle 2 pkts of US-05 dry yeast on the surface. Leave for half an hour and then whisk to aerate (I do that because that’s what the manufacturers recommend and I figure they would know what they were talking about http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/upl ... A_US05.pdf )

Then leave it in a room for 10 days with the thermostat set to about 19C with the lid on (the lid can be sanitised in the oven)

4 and 12FRM work very well for me with the fermenting in a brew kettle (FBK) method. They also both taste nice fresh (within a day or two of kegging) and improve during weeks one and two. I don’t know what happens after that, as it’s usually all gone by week 3.

Joshua, maybe I don't get the baby poop with 12 as it is a SMaSH, with base malt only and no crystal or anything.
Last edited by GuingesRock on 19 Jan 2013, 22:47, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #8 made 12 years ago
Guinges, your lucky you had no color grains!!

By the way, "flavours are only extracted by alcohol" is not the true rule. If you slo-chill in the kettle/stockpot overnight, try dropping the "Flavor hops" in the wort, when the temeperature is Below 192F/88C and take them out after 60 minutes or the temperature is below 154F/68C.

You will find a "FULL flavor" from the hops since the flavor did not boil off.

I found the Hops I have used, give massive flavor in the beer since I am trying "Late Wort Hopping".

Also, Add the 60 minutes to the "Bitterness" hop time since Bitternees can still be extracted to 154F/68C!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
Oh Joshua, you took that out of context. The full quote was “many of their healthy components and flavours are only extracted by alcohol”

Interesting what you said though.

More than one way to skin a cat :) Read this if you get a chance, it's why I think the beer is so good: http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

This has something on the good stuff (not just flavour) that is only soluble in alcohol http://kenanddot.wordpress.com/2012/11/ ... en-option/
Last edited by GuingesRock on 20 Jan 2013, 02:17, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #10 made 12 years ago
Guinges, take a look at a post I made about the Hop oils that we need for beer, I use this info for my trials on my currnt brewing. See http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 028#p25031

I involves REVERSE hopping, so if you are aa "out of the envelope" type person, you might be intersted.

If you really want to use Alcohol to get Hop Oils see BB's post http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 379#p24379

HOP VODKA!!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #12 made 12 years ago
I kegged two batches today, both fermented in the brew kettle, as I usually do. One batch was a FWH only IPA with leaf hops. The other batch was a barley wine which was made with extract and pellet hops. The idea was to get rid of the extract I had as I’ve gone off extract. It’s expensive, it doesn't taste quite as good, and it's a PITA. I was also wanting to try using pellet hops. I didn’t use a hop sock for either batch as I usually leave all the hops in for the ferment.

What I discovered is with the pellet hop batch, by the end of the 10 day ferment, all of the hops were at the bottom of the kettle mixed in with a fairly firm yeast cake, and the beer drained off clear, almost to the very last drop, with very little wastage to trub. Not so with the leaf hop batch!

Thus, I think I might be moving to pellet hops for this method.
Guinges
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