Hi,
I usually get a lot of trub after the boil and I was thinking of pouring the last liters into PET bottles to let it settle for a couple of hours in the fridge, and then add it to the fermentation bucket together with the the rest of the wort. Maybe I can add a little bit of yeast to the trubby wort, say .5 grams to protect it from being infected.
Would this be a bad idea?
Post #2 made 8 years ago
Kanga, you can "Strain" the Wort thru a Strainer, and then Drain the wort thru a Coffee Filter, and Collect all the Wort you can.
If you use a "Hop Sack" the Trub, will be Less.
Also, you Bag may be too Coarse, or the Grain bill is too Fine, and that would give you a lot of Husk Material in the Wort.
Or, use the Clear Wort in the PET bottle to Make a Starter, if you slow Chill, or No chill.
JMHO.
If you use a "Hop Sack" the Trub, will be Less.
Also, you Bag may be too Coarse, or the Grain bill is too Fine, and that would give you a lot of Husk Material in the Wort.
Or, use the Clear Wort in the PET bottle to Make a Starter, if you slow Chill, or No chill.
JMHO.
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Post #3 made 8 years ago
I do this Kangarooster, so I wouldn't say it is a bad idea, but neither is it classed as "good practice" either. However, homebrewing to me is like cooking, and the head chef can do what he likes!
My last batch of 58L VIF had around 8L of trub. This just gets decanted into sanitised PET bottles and flasks etc. Sealed up & placed in the fridge.
I always re-boil this afterwards though just in case anything has been transferred, 5 minutes and a quick chill in the sink and the hop isomerisation should be negligible too.
I think I got around 3L of wort out of that 8L trub, so for me it is worth the (minimal IMO) effort. You also have the option of using this to top up your ferment, prime with, or even use as a starter. Win win!
My last batch of 58L VIF had around 8L of trub. This just gets decanted into sanitised PET bottles and flasks etc. Sealed up & placed in the fridge.
I always re-boil this afterwards though just in case anything has been transferred, 5 minutes and a quick chill in the sink and the hop isomerisation should be negligible too.
I think I got around 3L of wort out of that 8L trub, so for me it is worth the (minimal IMO) effort. You also have the option of using this to top up your ferment, prime with, or even use as a starter. Win win!
G B
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Post #4 made 8 years ago
Thank you for the suggestions. I poured the last two liters through a coffee filter a couple of times (I changed filters when the flow rate got too low). Ended up with 1.5 liters extra into the fermenter.
I think by bag should be OK. I use this fabric: http://m.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/art/60260330/. However I don't have a barley crusher - I grind my malt using an old fashioned Electrolux Assistent from the 70s with the flour grinder accessory. I set to grind quite course but maybe I end up with more flour than I should.
I think by bag should be OK. I use this fabric: http://m.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/art/60260330/. However I don't have a barley crusher - I grind my malt using an old fashioned Electrolux Assistent from the 70s with the flour grinder accessory. I set to grind quite course but maybe I end up with more flour than I should.
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Post #5 made 8 years ago
Your Flour Looks Bright White, that would mean it was the Pure Starch, It will Disappear as the Mash Converts it.
The large Pieces of Husk are perfect, and will stay in the bag.
Filtering the Trub, will give you near the proper VIF, or more as you said.
The large Pieces of Husk are perfect, and will stay in the bag.
Filtering the Trub, will give you near the proper VIF, or more as you said.
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Post #6 made 8 years ago
Hello Kanga,
Is your main concern about the trub affecting the quality of the beer? I take a very lazy approach and don't do any filtering so everything goes in the fermentation vessel. I make sure everything is then completely settled before racking to a bottling bucket. I'm quite new to brewing but have made some decent beers with no clarity issues. Brulosophy have a done a good experiment on trub in the fermentation vessel.
http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-gr ... ts-are-in/
Is your main concern about the trub affecting the quality of the beer? I take a very lazy approach and don't do any filtering so everything goes in the fermentation vessel. I make sure everything is then completely settled before racking to a bottling bucket. I'm quite new to brewing but have made some decent beers with no clarity issues. Brulosophy have a done a good experiment on trub in the fermentation vessel.
http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-gr ... ts-are-in/
Post #7 made 8 years ago
When transferring the wort from kettle to fermenter I line the opening of the fermenter with my grain bag folded over, stuff it down a bit so you have a bowl-bag hanging in and hold it on with bulldog clips. My bag is a fairly fine weave so I end up with a lovely clear wort.
Post #8 made 8 years ago
I don't filter my wort but I do a cold crash before bottling' this seems to keep most of the trub from finished product. Trub in my fermenter doesn't bother me as much as it would in my bottles(just IMHO).
Post #9 made 8 years ago
Gian: I am new as well. Have only made 3 batches 
I don't think it affects the quality (I would need a side by side to determine that). I just don't like to throw away roughly 1.5 liters of beer. Even if I would let it settle in fermentation vessel like you're doing, I would most probably end up throwing more trub from the fermentation vessel instead (compared to not having boil trub present). This way most of the trub left in fermentation vessel will be yeast, so it will be easier to separate when bottling. That's why I prefer to have as clear as possible to begin with. Not to mention that the beer will end up clearer I guess. My last beer seemed clear, but after I bottled it I noticed some trub in bottle. It might have been because I dry hopped though.
I don't think it affects the quality (I would need a side by side to determine that). I just don't like to throw away roughly 1.5 liters of beer. Even if I would let it settle in fermentation vessel like you're doing, I would most probably end up throwing more trub from the fermentation vessel instead (compared to not having boil trub present). This way most of the trub left in fermentation vessel will be yeast, so it will be easier to separate when bottling. That's why I prefer to have as clear as possible to begin with. Not to mention that the beer will end up clearer I guess. My last beer seemed clear, but after I bottled it I noticed some trub in bottle. It might have been because I dry hopped though.
Post #10 made 8 years ago
Ah, I see what you mean about wasting beer! I've been using the BIABACUS and so far have always bottled the volume it says I should. I do give the bag a good squeeze though so maybe making up extra volume there.
If you read that article I posted a link to earlier the clearest beer they brewed was one without the trub being filtered out.
There are some many different ways and opinions out there though, it can be confusing for us newbies!
If you read that article I posted a link to earlier the clearest beer they brewed was one without the trub being filtered out.
There are some many different ways and opinions out there though, it can be confusing for us newbies!
Post #11 made 8 years ago
I have about six BIAB's under my belt and maybe 14 total brews.
My first two brews I poured everything from the kettle into the ferm
bucket, and then racked from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.
Lotsa trub, lotsa hops, lost a good bit of wort in the process.
I tried pouring through a cheese cloth once. Bigtime disaster, since I'm doing this
by myself. Then I tried just a careful pour trying not to get so much trub
into the ferm bucket. That was a little better, but still had a fair amount
of trub to deal with.
The last 3-4 brews I have racked from the Kettle to the ferm bucket, and even set the
kettle on a small block of wood to tilt to one side and get as much wort out, and leave
all the trub. Racking also from the fermenter to the bottling bucket leaves more
yeast and trub in the fermenter. I did a smash ale a couple of brews ago that is
as clear as a lager. I really don't worry about sediment in the bottle, although
not everyone I give my bottled beer to thinks the same way.
Racking seems to be the easiest and most efficient method to date of leaving the
trub behind.
My first two brews I poured everything from the kettle into the ferm
bucket, and then racked from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.
Lotsa trub, lotsa hops, lost a good bit of wort in the process.
I tried pouring through a cheese cloth once. Bigtime disaster, since I'm doing this
by myself. Then I tried just a careful pour trying not to get so much trub
into the ferm bucket. That was a little better, but still had a fair amount
of trub to deal with.
The last 3-4 brews I have racked from the Kettle to the ferm bucket, and even set the
kettle on a small block of wood to tilt to one side and get as much wort out, and leave
all the trub. Racking also from the fermenter to the bottling bucket leaves more
yeast and trub in the fermenter. I did a smash ale a couple of brews ago that is
as clear as a lager. I really don't worry about sediment in the bottle, although
not everyone I give my bottled beer to thinks the same way.
Racking seems to be the easiest and most efficient method to date of leaving the
trub behind.
Last edited by soccerfan on 10 Dec 2015, 22:14, edited 1 time in total.
Removing trub (boil to fermentor)
Post #12 made 8 years ago
I think how much effort goes into this depends on what size batches you are brewing. I normally get 40L into no chill cubes so as long as I have enough wort to fill the cubes I am happy. If you are making 10L at a time a litre is precious!
I don't worry too much if a bit of trub ends up in the fermenter and it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
When you are bottle conditioning you will always get a residue in the bottom of the bottle from the yeast and at times some hop matter, especially if you have dry hopped and not crash chilled before bottling. I wouldn't worry about that either, it won't do any harm.
I don't worry too much if a bit of trub ends up in the fermenter and it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
When you are bottle conditioning you will always get a residue in the bottom of the bottle from the yeast and at times some hop matter, especially if you have dry hopped and not crash chilled before bottling. I wouldn't worry about that either, it won't do any harm.
Post #13 made 8 years ago
Kanga, I will have to try and find the link..... But.... I forget who the article was from but it basically said put the trub in the fermentor, and you will get better efficiency.... Personally I filter my trub out...and have not had any problems and get good effiency . Post a biabacus so we can help. Curious to see your results.
J
J
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Removing trub (boil to fermentor)
Post #14 made 8 years ago
Presumably you are talking about efficiency into the fermenter? If so then of course you would get better efficiency as you would have no kettle losses. From my perspective that isn't the best reason not to separate trub out, especially when it can be done relatively simply.
While it may not make a difference to the flavour of the final beer as I believe was found in a brulosophy blog, that was a one off test and the plural of anecdote isn't data.
My main concern would be how much crap was in the fermenter when it was all finished and whether or not that would cover the tap!
While it may not make a difference to the flavour of the final beer as I believe was found in a brulosophy blog, that was a one off test and the plural of anecdote isn't data.
My main concern would be how much crap was in the fermenter when it was all finished and whether or not that would cover the tap!
Post #15 made 8 years ago
Transfering some trub to your fermenter will benefit your yeast. There are nutrients in the trub that help with yeast health.
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Removing trub (boil to fermentor)
Post #16 made 8 years ago
Depending on what your trub contains. Generally trub consists of hot break and hops if you no chill. If you chill it will contain cold break as well.
The general consensus is that hot break and hops are best separated from the wort prior to fermentation but cold break does have some beneficial elements for yeast.
The general consensus is that hot break and hops are best separated from the wort prior to fermentation but cold break does have some beneficial elements for yeast.
Post #17 made 8 years ago
I use Brew Brite to help clear the wort and a pick up tube so that the tap on my kettle is getting wort from the side after a whirlpool. I turn the tap on slowly until it eventually open fully. I also use a hop sock made from voil which is fine enough to pretty much stop all of the hops even after i squeeze it dry.
Any trub and hops i get after that is not worth worrying about.
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Any trub and hops i get after that is not worth worrying about.
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Post #18 made 8 years ago
Yesterday when I brewed I got 3 liters of trub and ended up with 11 liters in the fermenter. I think the problem was that I didn't wait long enough for everything to settle. It's just that I am worried the wort will be infected if left too long without adding yeast. According to http://byo.com/malt/item/486-conquer-chill-haze you should let it rest for 2 hours then siphon, but would that be safe?
Post #19 made 8 years ago
Kanga, if you Put a towel on the Kettle to keep $#@^$ out of the Kettle, and you can Cover it above 140F, the Wort can be Considered Sterile.
I leave the Kettle Lid on the Towel, Over night to Slo-Chill, then the next day, drian the Entire kettle through a Large Screen type Colander like http://www.amazon.com/Cook-10-Inch-Stai ... B001U0O2US.
I recover all but 1L of the Wort.
I leave the Kettle Lid on the Towel, Over night to Slo-Chill, then the next day, drian the Entire kettle through a Large Screen type Colander like http://www.amazon.com/Cook-10-Inch-Stai ... B001U0O2US.
I recover all but 1L of the Wort.
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Post #20 made 8 years ago
Thanks! The thing is, its not only trub but a lot of chill haze particles. I tried to filter the it through a coffee filter but some of it got through.
Post #21 made 8 years ago
The Chill Haze proteins are smaller than the a Fine Filter can get out.
Settling will help, BUT, a 3 or 4 day "Cold Crash" will drop out those tiny Haze Particle, just like Stubborn Yeast.
If you have a big Problem of Chill haze, Try No-Chill, and Put the "Cube" in a cool(Less that 15C/60F) Place for a few days, before warming to fermenting temperatures.
Settling will help, BUT, a 3 or 4 day "Cold Crash" will drop out those tiny Haze Particle, just like Stubborn Yeast.
If you have a big Problem of Chill haze, Try No-Chill, and Put the "Cube" in a cool(Less that 15C/60F) Place for a few days, before warming to fermenting temperatures.
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Post #22 made 8 years ago
Thank you! I have considered using the no chill method. I was actually googling for food safe (up to 100 °C) plastic "cubes" just now.
Post #23 made 8 years ago
Are you using some kind of hop sock? How are you transfering you wort to the fermenter?
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Post #24 made 8 years ago
I am using a hop sock and I transfer using a siphon.
Last edited by Kangarooster on 26 May 2016, 18:06, edited 1 time in total.
Post #25 made 8 years ago
Excellent. I think then letting things settle will be best for you.
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