Looking for some advice here.
Seems just when I think I know how to fill out BIABACUS, I do something wrong.
Was hoping a super experianced user would mind filling out BIABACUS for me using
the below recipe.
I of course will be using all grain (I left the extract info in there for those who may want to do it that way)
Misc Info on my setup
Section B
Kettle Diameter 39.2 cm
Kettle Height 42.4 cm
Section X
Kettle Shape Volume Adjustment 4.30 Liters
I appreciate all the help!!
Brandon
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/ ... s-an-ipa2/
Hoppiness is an IPA | India Pale Ale
Ingredients
For 6 gallons (23 L)
9.75 lbs (4.42 kg) | Light LME
0.5 lb (227 g) | Munich LME
1.0 Lb (0.45 kg) | Crystal 15°L
0.25 lb (113 g) | Crystal 40°L
1.0 oz (28 g) | Horizon, 13% AA (60 min)
1.0 oz (28 g) | Centennial, 9% AA (10 min)
1.0 oz (28 g) | Simcoe, 12% AA (5 min)
1.0 oz (28 g) | Amarillo, 9% AA (0 min)
2.5 | Packets/Tubes White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast, Wyeast 1056 American Ale yeast, or Fermentis Safale US-05 or appropriate starter.
Specifications
Original Gravity: 1.065 (15.9 °P)
Final Gravity: 1.012 (3.1 °P)
ABV: 8.1%
IBU: 64
SRM: 7
Boil Time: 60 mins
Efficiency: n/a
Pre-boil Volume: 7 Gallons (26.5L)
Pre-boil Gravity: 1.055 (13.6 °P)
Directions
Fermenting and Conditioning
Ferment at 67°F (19°C). After several weeks check the gravity to ensure fermentation has completed. Carbonate the beer to approximately 2 to 2.5 volumes of CO2.
*The recipe is intended to yield 6 gallons at the end of the boil. 5.5 gallons are assumed to be racked to the fermenter (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss). Final volume should be 5 gallons for bottling (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss).
All Grain Option
For all-grain, replace light extract with 12.75 lbs (5.78 kg) American Two-Row Malt. Replace the Munich extract with 0.75 lbs (340 g) Munich Malt (9°L). Mash at 149°F (65°C). With the low mash temperature, you may need to lengthen the rest time to 90 minutes to get full conversion.
Post #2 made 10 years ago
Howdy Brandon,
Best thread for stuff like this is this one. Anyway, all's good.
Here's what I think you need to do...
Fill out the file as best as you can and then post it here as we can't really be asking others to do a whole lot of typing for you
. Also, it is easier to point out the one or two things you may get wrong (and more educational for you) rather than giving you a perfect duplicate with no errors.
Use PR1.3K which is available here.
Best thread for stuff like this is this one. Anyway, all's good.
Here's what I think you need to do...
Fill out the file as best as you can and then post it here as we can't really be asking others to do a whole lot of typing for you
. Also, it is easier to point out the one or two things you may get wrong (and more educational for you) rather than giving you a perfect duplicate with no errors.Use PR1.3K which is available here.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 05 Apr 2014, 19:00, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #3 made 10 years ago
Ok here is my completed file.
1. Original Recipe shows ABV 8.1% BIABacus shows 6.3% Why?
2. Section D: I was unsure what to input for the VAW. Where do I get this information?
The AA% of the hops. I input the recipe numbers on the left, Once I I know VAW and the AA% of the hops I buy I input on right?
3. Section G: Mashout? Recipe doesn't say.
4. Section H: What to input for Attenuation? I will use one vial of WLP001 and make a yeast starter on a stirplate.
I assume I should actually up my boil time from 60 to 90 min?
When should I whirlpool? Before, during or after chilling? I have heard all 3.
Did I miss anything else?
Thanks for all the help!!!
Brandon
1. Original Recipe shows ABV 8.1% BIABacus shows 6.3% Why?
2. Section D: I was unsure what to input for the VAW. Where do I get this information?
The AA% of the hops. I input the recipe numbers on the left, Once I I know VAW and the AA% of the hops I buy I input on right?
3. Section G: Mashout? Recipe doesn't say.
4. Section H: What to input for Attenuation? I will use one vial of WLP001 and make a yeast starter on a stirplate.
I assume I should actually up my boil time from 60 to 90 min?
When should I whirlpool? Before, during or after chilling? I have heard all 3.
Did I miss anything else?
Thanks for all the help!!!
Brandon
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Post #4 made 10 years ago
Okey, dokey. Copying recipes properly is all about understanding what makes up a high integrity recipe versus a low integrity recipe. I spent a while (and too many beers) writing up A perfect example of a low integrity recipe the other day which is based on a recipe from the same site as the one you are copying (some good news for you below though). I've tidied that other thread up so please make sure you read it so as you understand the myriad of problems that you can come across when relying on published recipes.
Your Questions First
1. Two reasons for the discrepancy in ABV. Firstly the site is wrong. If you look at the original recipe in the book, Brewing Classic Styles, the ABV is 7%. Also in the original recipe you will find that the ADF (apparent degree of fermentation) is 81%. Go down to Section H and type that in at the of the fourth line. You'll see now that the ABV comes to 6.8%. The difference of 0.2% may be caused by things like rounding errors but without having the original recipe computer file and program, I can't tell.
As for the hops, yes, once you know the AA% of your hops you buy, type them on the right.
2. VAW is explained in the link above. 'Volume of Ambient Wort' is the volume at the of the boil after it has been chilled. In other words, it is the same as your 'VIF - Volume into Fermentor' plus your 'KFL - Kettle to Fermentor Loss.' Most published recipes do not provide this figure which is the most important volume figure you need to know when copying a recipe. I'll come back to this in the "BCS Recipes" section below.
3. Mashout if you can on any BIAB brew. The extra time that it allows the grain to stay in contact with the water, can often make a difference to your kettle efficiency.
4. See one above.
5. Yes, up your boil time to 90 minutes to be on the safe side for all-grain brewing.
6. I wouldn't worry about whirlpooling if you can use your BIAB bag as a hopsock. It's much easier. With whirlpooling, you can't have a chiller in the kettle for a start. Secondly, in microbreweries, it is done hot but the wort is also being transferred and chilled at the same time. Also you need to do a slow stir. In other words, don't use a drill. I really don't know anything more than that as the few times I tried it, it only worked once. I just use my BIAB bag.
BCS Recipes
The recipe comes from the book "Brewing Classic Styles" and the information provided is about as good as it gets in published recipes. Most other published recipes give nowhere near enough information for them to be copied well, if at all. There are still af ew problems though.
We saw above that VAW was the end of boil volume once chilled. In your recipe it says that there is an end of boil volume of 6 gallons. We don't know whether this is chilled or not but we have assumed it is. In other words, you would type 22.7 L on the first line of Section D.
But there is one other problem that I recently discovered. I've won silver medals with these recipes but a common theme was that they were under-hopped. I then realised that most of these recipes are actually based on extract recipes with an all-grain conversion. The problem is that the hop bill was not being increased (in fact, I have never seen an extract recipe converted to all-grain with a changed hop bill) but there should be a conversion as all-grain brews have less hop utilisation than extract brews as the hop oils are retained more by the break etc.) This is a fact btw, not a supposition.
As I said in this post...
Mind you, you better watch that kettle like a hawk. It's pretty full!!!
Your Questions First
1. Two reasons for the discrepancy in ABV. Firstly the site is wrong. If you look at the original recipe in the book, Brewing Classic Styles, the ABV is 7%. Also in the original recipe you will find that the ADF (apparent degree of fermentation) is 81%. Go down to Section H and type that in at the of the fourth line. You'll see now that the ABV comes to 6.8%. The difference of 0.2% may be caused by things like rounding errors but without having the original recipe computer file and program, I can't tell.
As for the hops, yes, once you know the AA% of your hops you buy, type them on the right.
2. VAW is explained in the link above. 'Volume of Ambient Wort' is the volume at the of the boil after it has been chilled. In other words, it is the same as your 'VIF - Volume into Fermentor' plus your 'KFL - Kettle to Fermentor Loss.' Most published recipes do not provide this figure which is the most important volume figure you need to know when copying a recipe. I'll come back to this in the "BCS Recipes" section below.
3. Mashout if you can on any BIAB brew. The extra time that it allows the grain to stay in contact with the water, can often make a difference to your kettle efficiency.
4. See one above.
5. Yes, up your boil time to 90 minutes to be on the safe side for all-grain brewing.
6. I wouldn't worry about whirlpooling if you can use your BIAB bag as a hopsock. It's much easier. With whirlpooling, you can't have a chiller in the kettle for a start. Secondly, in microbreweries, it is done hot but the wort is also being transferred and chilled at the same time. Also you need to do a slow stir. In other words, don't use a drill. I really don't know anything more than that as the few times I tried it, it only worked once. I just use my BIAB bag.
BCS Recipes
The recipe comes from the book "Brewing Classic Styles" and the information provided is about as good as it gets in published recipes. Most other published recipes give nowhere near enough information for them to be copied well, if at all. There are still af ew problems though.
We saw above that VAW was the end of boil volume once chilled. In your recipe it says that there is an end of boil volume of 6 gallons. We don't know whether this is chilled or not but we have assumed it is. In other words, you would type 22.7 L on the first line of Section D.
But there is one other problem that I recently discovered. I've won silver medals with these recipes but a common theme was that they were under-hopped. I then realised that most of these recipes are actually based on extract recipes with an all-grain conversion. The problem is that the hop bill was not being increased (in fact, I have never seen an extract recipe converted to all-grain with a changed hop bill) but there should be a conversion as all-grain brews have less hop utilisation than extract brews as the hop oils are retained more by the break etc.) This is a fact btw, not a supposition.
As I said in this post...
In light of the above, here is your file which is perfect except for the three things I have changed - boil time, 20.19 L in Section D and the 81% attenuation.Latest Advice on BCS Recipes
What we really need to be doing here is taking a guess at what no one has guessed at before (that I know of). We need to decide what percentage of hops we need to add extra to an all-grain brew compared to an extract. I've won quite a lot of Silvers just brewing BCS recipes but the majority of negative comments said, "Slightly under-hopped." In light of this...
My best guess on how to deal with this is to increase the hop bill by 12.5%.
The easiest way to do this in the BIABacus with BCS recipes is to make the first line of Section D read 20.19 L.
Note that this will affect the colour estimate of the original formula but not of the scaled formula.
Mind you, you better watch that kettle like a hawk. It's pretty full!!!
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 06 Apr 2014, 07:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Help filling out BIABACUS properly
Post #5 made 10 years ago
SWEET! Thanks PP! BCS is my main source atm for recipes so this is great info. I think beersmith is good for learning but I am liking BIABicus more and more.
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Post #6 made 10 years ago
Question..... Why mash at 65/149* instead of 68/154* ? Would you not convert the starches better at the higher temp and get better efficiency ? I thought the best mash temp was between 152-156* F ? PP, not trying to be a smarta$$ just trying to brew better.
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
Im only a beginner but the way I understand it is that lower mash temps give the wort more alpha amylase that are more fermentable and therefore give a lighter body beer. Higher temps give more beta amylase for a heavier body beer. Mid temps are used for a mix of both. I think alpha amylase is maltodextrin (fermentable) and beta is maltose (unfermentable) which gives better head retention. Im sure I have alot of things completly wrong but someone will correct me im sure.
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Post #8 made 10 years ago
Great answer nosco ,
This is an advanced area and one we don't have to worry about too much in the early days. Several things affect attenuation (how much fermentable sugar gets produced in the mash/sparge and then eaten by the yeast) and one of these is mash temperature. So, if you want to brew a Budweiser, if you were doing a single infusion mash, as nosco said you'd aim for a low mash temp of 62 C (143.6F). A stout you might wish to mash at 70C. THese are the two extremes of the scale.
As for kettle efficiency, the warmer brew will give higher kettle efficiency over a short time but if you give the low temp mash more time, it will catch up to the high temp mash. This is another reason why a 90 minute mash minimum is recommended, even longer for some beers.
Other ways exist though of manipulating fermentability. For example sugars can be added, enzymes can be added, different grains can be added. Also in a big heavy beer like a barley wine, you might think you should mash high because it is a full bodied beer but you actually want to step mash that if possible so as you are getting the most fermentable wort you can otherwise you will end up with a terribly full, sweet unbalanced beer.
Keep things simple though. If brewing normal gravity beers, just follow noscos advice.
PP
,This is an advanced area and one we don't have to worry about too much in the early days. Several things affect attenuation (how much fermentable sugar gets produced in the mash/sparge and then eaten by the yeast) and one of these is mash temperature. So, if you want to brew a Budweiser, if you were doing a single infusion mash, as nosco said you'd aim for a low mash temp of 62 C (143.6F). A stout you might wish to mash at 70C. THese are the two extremes of the scale.
As for kettle efficiency, the warmer brew will give higher kettle efficiency over a short time but if you give the low temp mash more time, it will catch up to the high temp mash. This is another reason why a 90 minute mash minimum is recommended, even longer for some beers.
Other ways exist though of manipulating fermentability. For example sugars can be added, enzymes can be added, different grains can be added. Also in a big heavy beer like a barley wine, you might think you should mash high because it is a full bodied beer but you actually want to step mash that if possible so as you are getting the most fermentable wort you can otherwise you will end up with a terribly full, sweet unbalanced beer.
Keep things simple though. If brewing normal gravity beers, just follow noscos advice.
PP
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