Hi all
I have been working overseas but should be home in 3 weeks and would like to do my first brew.
I really have no idea what would be a good recipe to start off with. After getting sick of K and K brews i have been enjoying export cans, so i was thinking a larger would be good. However i will only be home for 2 weeks and believe that largers need a longer fermenting time at lower temps? So maybe a larger would be out of the question. (unless i could leave one fermenting for 5 weeks then get the misses to cold crash it for the remaining weeks before i return) I have in the past enjoyed wheat beers, pilsners and largers. So sick of the Heineken crap that is available over here.
Guessing i should start with an easy foolproof one to start off with.
I am living out bush also but can mail order, any suggestions of the best online stores???
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Gryphon brewing is a good place to check out http://www.gryphonbrewing.com.au/store/index.php
They are based in Bassendean Perth, but Nev will ship out also.
They are based in Bassendean Perth, but Nev will ship out also.
Last edited by Aces high on 11 Jun 2012, 20:43, edited 3 times in total.
Post #3 made 12 years ago
Hi there langdon. Just a quick question, are you kegging or bottling?
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Post #5 made 12 years ago
I'm struggling a bit with this one langdon due to the timings and the fact that when you land here, you still have about 7 hours driving to do just to get home 
.
The problem is if you want a lager, it's probably best you leave it for three weeks before you bottle. LloydieP's Krispy Kolsch is a great pseudo-lager but there's a few problems there... you'd have to use a liquid yeast (German Ale yeast) as it's too hard to get K97 here. Even then you want it to ferment at 15C and so you'd want to brew as soon as you got home and bottle it just before you go.
Just had a look at Nev's site and he doesn't have German Lae Yeast in stock. Roy at TWOC in Bibra Lake does have it here but I am unsure whether he mail orders.
Mark in Newcastle does have K-97 for $5 and does mail order. You might find that the cost of getting grain, hops and yeast sent over isn't too bad. Might be worth sending him an email???
If you do want to try the kolsch, I'll scale up a recipe for your new urn and that way you can order the ingredients exactly.
That's the best I can think of for now sorry
.
PP
.The problem is if you want a lager, it's probably best you leave it for three weeks before you bottle. LloydieP's Krispy Kolsch is a great pseudo-lager but there's a few problems there... you'd have to use a liquid yeast (German Ale yeast) as it's too hard to get K97 here. Even then you want it to ferment at 15C and so you'd want to brew as soon as you got home and bottle it just before you go.
Just had a look at Nev's site and he doesn't have German Lae Yeast in stock. Roy at TWOC in Bibra Lake does have it here but I am unsure whether he mail orders.
Mark in Newcastle does have K-97 for $5 and does mail order. You might find that the cost of getting grain, hops and yeast sent over isn't too bad. Might be worth sending him an email???
If you do want to try the kolsch, I'll scale up a recipe for your new urn and that way you can order the ingredients exactly.
That's the best I can think of for now sorry
.PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 12 Jun 2012, 17:28, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #6 made 12 years ago
I think a 3 week fermentation on a 3 week break is asking for trouble unfortunately, might have to look into a 2 week fermentation i think.
Think i have a 4 week break over october so can do the Kolsh receipie then, really looking forward to this one.
Any other idea's for a foolproof first up beer to brew that tastes great?
Think i have a 4 week break over october so can do the Kolsh receipie then, really looking forward to this one.
Any other idea's for a foolproof first up beer to brew that tastes great?
Post #7 made 12 years ago
Looking to turn one around quickly?
Hefeweizen can be done fermenting in 7-10 days. Wyeast 3068 or White Labs WLP300 (both are Weihenstephaner Hefe Yeast) with a 50% pale malt and 50% wheat grist, hopped with Hallertau to @ 12-14 IBU's. Under 2 weeks time from brew day to bottling day.
---Todd
Hefeweizen can be done fermenting in 7-10 days. Wyeast 3068 or White Labs WLP300 (both are Weihenstephaner Hefe Yeast) with a 50% pale malt and 50% wheat grist, hopped with Hallertau to @ 12-14 IBU's. Under 2 weeks time from brew day to bottling day.
---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
Forgot to post back here. Langdon and I got PM'ing and he's going to go for the NRB All Amarillo APA which is always a goodie .
I just noticed that there is an error in the hop schedule so have written to BIABrewer so they can fix it.
With this one, you can ferment it with the US-O5 at 22C without any problems. 10 days would be enough time at this temp if you can get it there in the cold weather you are in langdon. You could then bottle and keep it at that temp and who knows, you might even be able to taste a bottle before you go back? Why not?
Hopefully the BIABrewer guys can fix the recipe soon.
PP
.I just noticed that there is an error in the hop schedule so have written to BIABrewer so they can fix it.
With this one, you can ferment it with the US-O5 at 22C without any problems. 10 days would be enough time at this temp if you can get it there in the cold weather you are in langdon. You could then bottle and keep it at that temp and who knows, you might even be able to taste a bottle before you go back? Why not?
Hopefully the BIABrewer guys can fix the recipe soon.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Jun 2012, 14:04, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
Thanks guys for the replies.
Funny after trawling through sites researching the one thing i did not find was a good brew to start off with.
Looking forward to trying this out, will let you all know how it went.
Funny after trawling through sites researching the one thing i did not find was a good brew to start off with.
Looking forward to trying this out, will let you all know how it went.
Post #10 made 12 years ago
Ok, stupid quesion time. 
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 30.3 g at 5 min
for the 90min boil do you add the Hop 1 at 60 mins and leave for half hour and so on, or, add Hop 1 with 60 min to go and so on???
Also what is yeast nutrient???
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 30.3 g at 5 min
for the 90min boil do you add the Hop 1 at 60 mins and leave for half hour and so on, or, add Hop 1 with 60 min to go and so on???
Also what is yeast nutrient???
Post #11 made 12 years ago
langdon19,
For a 90 min boil. Let the water boil for 30 minutes and then add the 60 min Hop 1 (bittering hops) With 20 min left add Hop 2. With 5 min left add Hop 3. Hop 2 and 3 are the aroma hops. In recipes you add hops with the time left to boil. For a 60 minute boil you add the bittering hops as soon as you get a good rolling boil.for the 90min boil do you add the Hop 1 at 60 mins and leave for half hour and so on, or, add Hop 1 with 60 min to go and so on???
It's vitamins for your yeast. Yeast need things like magnesium and whatnot. The yeast nutrient is everything they need to reproduce easily. It's cheap and a little goes a long ways.Also what is yeast nutrient???
Last edited by BobBrews on 16 Jun 2012, 19:45, edited 3 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #12 made 12 years ago
(Looks like Nuff has made the corrections to NRB's recipe already .)
Don't worry about what you think are stupid questions langdon. There's heaps of questions to ask and that one was far from stupid.
Bob and langdon, I've stopped using yeast nutrient now for two reasons...
1. I tasted it
.
2. John Palmer (I think) said it is unnecessary in all-grain beers. You only need it for extract beers which don't have all the goodies contained in all-grain.
Since I have stopped using it, I certainly haven't noticed any problems at all so I am sticking with John's advice on this - it's not needed in an all-grain recipe. (Probably useful for starters though.)
.)Don't worry about what you think are stupid questions langdon. There's heaps of questions to ask and that one was far from stupid.
Bob and langdon, I've stopped using yeast nutrient now for two reasons...
1. I tasted it
.2. John Palmer (I think) said it is unnecessary in all-grain beers. You only need it for extract beers which don't have all the goodies contained in all-grain.
Since I have stopped using it, I certainly haven't noticed any problems at all so I am sticking with John's advice on this - it's not needed in an all-grain recipe. (Probably useful for starters though.)
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Post #13 made 12 years ago
PP,
Your probably right! Yeast starters and extract for sure. The quality of the water has something to do with it. If you have enough minerals in your home brewing water than all is well. If you have to buy your water than I think I may just use nutrient to be safe. After all what harm does "food grade urea" do?
Your probably right! Yeast starters and extract for sure. The quality of the water has something to do with it. If you have enough minerals in your home brewing water than all is well. If you have to buy your water than I think I may just use nutrient to be safe. After all what harm does "food grade urea" do?
Last edited by BobBrews on 16 Jun 2012, 21:03, edited 3 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #14 made 12 years ago
You're probably right as well Bob, probably more so...
I would have never thought about the mineral side of what the water contains. I think I have always been lucky with my brewing water. For example, plenty of times I have forgotten to adjust for pH and have not been able to tell the difference in the final result.
Your advice is better than mine I think - err on the safe side
.
PP
I would have never thought about the mineral side of what the water contains. I think I have always been lucky with my brewing water. For example, plenty of times I have forgotten to adjust for pH and have not been able to tell the difference in the final result.
Your advice is better than mine I think - err on the safe side
. PP
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Post #15 made 11 years ago
Well, i have 23l of beer in the urn cooling down for transfer into the fermenter tomorrow. The grind nearly killed my drill and i have some work to do to make next brew day a little easier. Anyhow.
Cooling down a small amount i seem to not have the starting gravity of 1.058 but 1.048, should i give it a boil or add some dextrose???
Or just settle for a lower % beer???
Although my hydrometer tube is cracked and leaking and the hydrometer seems to be sticking to the side i am sure that i am a little on the low side.
Also, i assume the chooks and sheep would love the boiled grains in the morning???
And the hops also, is this ok to feed to the chooks?
Cooling down a small amount i seem to not have the starting gravity of 1.058 but 1.048, should i give it a boil or add some dextrose???
Or just settle for a lower % beer???
Although my hydrometer tube is cracked and leaking and the hydrometer seems to be sticking to the side i am sure that i am a little on the low side.
Also, i assume the chooks and sheep would love the boiled grains in the morning???
And the hops also, is this ok to feed to the chooks?
Post #16 made 11 years ago
Great to see you got the time and ingredients to brew on this last roster langdon . And, congratulations .
Don't worry about your OG on this brew. The beer will be fine. Definitely don't boil it more or add dextrose. If anything, just take another reading and see if it agrees. Even if it does, don't do anything
. It's not that important. If on your next two or three brews you get the same discrepancy, then we can look at things like pH.
AS for the spent grain, I think you are safe with chooks and sheep but I can't guarantee it. Why? Read Ag Brewing Kills, Alas poor Casper.
PP
. And, congratulations .Don't worry about your OG on this brew. The beer will be fine. Definitely don't boil it more or add dextrose. If anything, just take another reading and see if it agrees. Even if it does, don't do anything
. It's not that important. If on your next two or three brews you get the same discrepancy, then we can look at things like pH.AS for the spent grain, I think you are safe with chooks and sheep but I can't guarantee it. Why? Read Ag Brewing Kills, Alas poor Casper.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 28 Aug 2012, 23:08, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #17 made 11 years ago
I am sure I heard or read that spent grain is harmful to goats! Of all things!I thought they could eat anything.
AWOL
Post #18 made 11 years ago
Well the sheep enjoyed the grain and no problems thus far.
I had alot of "trub" in the bottom of the urn so only ended up with 20l or so of wort into the fermenter. Could this be a result of too fine a crush or normal? The crush looked good to me. I tried to keep most of it out but did transfer a bit to maximise the wort.
The brew is now simmering away happily with a pavlova froth on top.
I have an original starting gravity of 1.04, i am using rain water, don't know if this can affect it???
Thanks for the help and advice along the way guys, it certainly has been a learing experiance.
I had alot of "trub" in the bottom of the urn so only ended up with 20l or so of wort into the fermenter. Could this be a result of too fine a crush or normal? The crush looked good to me. I tried to keep most of it out but did transfer a bit to maximise the wort.
The brew is now simmering away happily with a pavlova froth on top.
I have an original starting gravity of 1.04, i am using rain water, don't know if this can affect it???
Thanks for the help and advice along the way guys, it certainly has been a learing experiance.
Post #19 made 11 years ago
langdon19 wrote:Well the sheep enjoyed the grain
Good on you .The trub can depend on bag porosity, the crush and the hop bill. One easy way to reduce it is to use your BIAB bag as a hop sock assuming you can hang it somehow.
You ended up doing the NRB's All Amarillo APA didn't you? The 1.040 sounds a bit dodge but that beer will take a lot of variation so nothing to worry about. The water pH can affect efficiency but not by that much. Do you remember how much grain you ordered?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 01 Sep 2012, 19:17, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #20 made 11 years ago
Hi Guys
Sorry for no replys but i have been with out the net for quite some time, hoping it will stay on from here on in. I will attach the calculator but it should be right. The problems could lie in the following 2 points.
1. 2nd hand urn with water levels pre marked, perhaps these mark's were wrong, i will check and measure myself next time.
2. No decent scales, will check my scales next time with some know weights. I have since bought some digital scales.
Well i have ordered a 2nd batch of grains, hope i like this beer. Learnt alot also.
Next stupid question. I weighed the grain b4 the crush, i am not sure if i should weigh uncrushed or crushed or if the weight changes presuming you have very little loss on the crush.
Sorry for no replys but i have been with out the net for quite some time, hoping it will stay on from here on in. I will attach the calculator but it should be right. The problems could lie in the following 2 points.
1. 2nd hand urn with water levels pre marked, perhaps these mark's were wrong, i will check and measure myself next time.
2. No decent scales, will check my scales next time with some know weights. I have since bought some digital scales.
Well i have ordered a 2nd batch of grains, hope i like this beer. Learnt alot also.
Next stupid question. I weighed the grain b4 the crush, i am not sure if i should weigh uncrushed or crushed or if the weight changes presuming you have very little loss on the crush.
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Post #21 made 11 years ago
Welcome back langdon. Hope you don't have to head back off for work too soon. When do you get to taste your first beer?
File above looks fine for NRB's All Amarillo APA.
As for weighing the grain before and after the crush, this is one of the few areas of brewing you get no losses
. Basically all the grain you crush ends up coming out the other end of the mill so weight before crush will equal weight after crush.
Good idea on checking the urn volume measurements. You'd be surprised at how many vessels out there, even direct form manufacturers, have some fairly wild markings on them.
PP
File above looks fine for NRB's All Amarillo APA
.As for weighing the grain before and after the crush, this is one of the few areas of brewing you get no losses
. Basically all the grain you crush ends up coming out the other end of the mill so weight before crush will equal weight after crush.Good idea on checking the urn volume measurements. You'd be surprised at how many vessels out there, even direct form manufacturers, have some fairly wild markings on them.
PP
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Post #22 made 11 years ago
I have been stuck at work with no net, should be home to crack the first brew end of this month, can't wait.
Looking forward to getting the 2nd brew on and get those numbers correct this time.
Will be alot more careful with the weight and water measurments this time.
Cheers for all the help guys.
Looking forward to getting the 2nd brew on and get those numbers correct this time.
Will be alot more careful with the weight and water measurments this time.
Cheers for all the help guys.
