Fine versus Normal Crush Experiment

Post #1 made 11 years ago
[MODNOTE: This thread originally began here but deserves it's own thread. mally feel free to write an introduction below.]

OK, so this thread has been excised from a previous one and so may seem a little disjointed at first. However....

The basic idea was that a fine crushed grain (or even pulverised/blitzed) could give you good quality wort, no compromise of quality, but in a much reduced mash time.
I set up a side by side experiment to compare pulverised grain to shop bought pre-ground grain.

###edit####

There are currently 3 pages (65 posts) in this thread (Oct 2014), for those who want to skip the read, this is what I feel is the current state of affairs.
The results were interesting but there is no conclusion, and possibly left us with more questions! The best answer/summary for me is as follows;


Let's Get Back on Track

What We Do Know

1. Laboratory Tests for extract potential (Congress Mash) show that there is only approximately 1.0% gain in extract potential between a fine and coarse grind. Considering that your kettle efficiency on an average brew might be about 80% then the difference will be about 0.8%.

Read: This and This. Hard stuff to get your head around.

2. We know from collecting many brewer's numbers, that kettle efficiency rises over time for many malts. So, doing less than a 90 minute mash can sometimes cause a significant loss in kettle efficiency. In some malts though, very little difference will be noted between say 60 and 90 minutes.

What We Don't Know

1. Does a fine grind significantly speed up extraction?

2. More importantly, does a fine grind significantly increase 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL)' and/or 'Fermentor to Packaging Loss (FPL)'? If so, it will also be reducing the amount of beer you end up with at the end of the day.

3. Does a short mash time (regardless of grind) affect any parameters such as attenuation?

4. More importantly, does a short mash time (regardless of grind) affect quality?

I think that summarises it :scratch:,
PP


####edit####

The original posts are as below:......
Last edited by mally on 18 Sep 2014, 17:41, edited 5 times in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #2 made 11 years ago
...I am certainly interested in a little experiment though, just to see one way or another.
i was thinking of pulverising the grain in a blender, then sieving the flour to see if I can remove any of the husk material (chaff).

Small sample, something like 250g, to make a 1L VIF (not wasting 5Kg), mash at 65C, take gravity measurements at 1 minute intervals until no change.
Normal fermentation, see what the hell it tastes like. :sneak:
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #3 made 11 years ago
Go for it. That would be great mally but...

Don't separate the husks. Pulverise everything and add the whole lot - that is what they are doing. This will avoid any weight comparison issues assuming you can do a side by side (which you'd need to do) and will also help show if there is a tannin issue.

The experiment would not only need to be a side by side one but would have to be repeated a few times on different styles.

Never easy eh? :smoke:
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Post #4 made 11 years ago
Just to play devils advocate here :shoot:

What if there is some truth in fine crushing? What parameters are required for it to work/not work (if any)?

I can easily believe that powdered malt converts much quicker. In fact I wrote a few years back that you could theoretically brew with no bag if you could somehow de-husk the barley and just add to your kettle the endosperm & embryo (separating pericarp, testa, aleurone) etc. Though I guess it cannot be done easily (or inexpensively).
The question for me though is, what does the resulting beer taste like? Is it repeatable, robust, suitable for all styles, and what other effects are there? trub etc.

I do plan to test this myself soon (no promises here) but this is what I propose;
side by side experiment where I use the same ingredients at the same time under the same conditions.
One batch of the malt is used as is supplied by the LHBS; pre-crushed.
The other batch is blitzed in a food processor into a fine powder.
Both are mashed & boiled at the same time.
During the mash, take regular gravity readings to plot progress (of both). I think 1 minute intervals will be too difficult to achieve, as I will have to closely monitor temps as well.

Here is the recipe

FEEL MY CRUSH

Brewer: Mally
Style: (OGK) “only god knows”

ABV: 4.1% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.040
IBU's (Tinseth): 35
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.87
Colour: 6.3 EBC = 3.2 SRM

Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 94.5 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 81 %

Mash: 90 mins at 66 C, Boil: 60 min, Ferment: 7 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Total Water Needed (TWN): 3.13 L
Volume into Boil (VIB): 3.15 L @ 1.015
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 1.17 L @ 1.04
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 1 L @ 1.04
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 0.93 L @ 1.01 attenuation of 75 %

100% PILSNER MALT (5 EBC = 2.5 SRM) 167 grams

33.3 IBU CLUSTER Pellets (7.3%AA) 1.9 grams at 60 mins
1.7 IBU CLUSTER Pellets (7.3%AA) 2.3 grams at 1 mins

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full-Volume Mash): for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F

Strike Water Needed (SWN): 3.19 L at 66.5 C
Mashout for 10 mins at 78 C

Hopsock Used: n
Chilling Method: NATURAL/AIR COOL

Fermentation: St Austell for 7 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Secondary Used: n
Crash-Chilled: n
Filtered: n
Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Serving Temp: 6 C = 42.8 F
Condition for 30 days.
Consume within 12 months.


Any comments, theories, suggestions, or corrections? please feel free to contribute :salute:
Last edited by mally on 19 Sep 2014, 16:24, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #5 made 11 years ago
mally, is there any way you can get the crudest/cheapest pils malt that has an issue converting even with 90 minute mashes?

:D

I feel like this experiment has to go the distance in order to mean something. It's inevitable that we run into exceptions to what will work under the 20 minute mash, and I'm taking RM-MN at his word that he's getting decent beer with his source ingredients. Looks like he's from Minnesota, so he has access to quality stuff.

I suppose we need to come up with some sort of realistic goal, and then decide whether we want to spend the time and money working toward it.
Last edited by Rick on 20 Sep 2014, 22:47, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 made 11 years ago
Mally,
I live where there are MANY "Harvester Combines".

The Kennel is passed between two Soft plates that roll the Kennels, the Husk breaks loose, then, the Kennels are passed thru a column of Blowing Air to separate Chaff from the Grain (winnow).

If your want to try this....rub some Un-milled grain between your hands, and have a Box fan near by sitting on an old Bed sheet, blowing down the sheet.

Let the Grain roll out of you hands in front of the Box fan.(while it is Blowing).

The grain will blow downwind a few feet and the Chaff/Husk material will blow MUCH further....Being Outside is a good Idea.

There are many ideas to create Small Winnowers. Good Luck
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #7 made 11 years ago
Thanks Joshua, I may get around to looking into that (I noticed your new thread too) :salute:

However for this grain crush experiment; I have only gone and done it!
There are some good and bad points to it but I think that goes with the territory with experiments. :think:

I decided to go for 150g Weyermann Pilsner malt in 2L water (TWN), one as normal, one "blitzed" in a blender, more info to follow after some pics;
NORMAL CRUSH.jpg
150g of normal crushed grain as is from the LHBS.
BLENDER.jpg
150g of normal grain after approx 30 seconds in a blender
BLITZED.jpg
The same grain in a tub, just to show that I lost 1g in the transfer.
TWN.jpg
Scales are "tared" with empty pan(s) and filled with 2Kg water (2L nominal).
DUAL MASH.jpg
Both pans are brought up to mashing temps (approx 66C) bags located and grain tipped in. Mash is at 65C after dough in.
The first interesting thing I noticed was that the "blitzed" grain formed doughballs very easily. No big problem though, just took a little longer to thoroughly mix in.
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Last edited by mally on 20 Sep 2014, 03:19, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #8 made 11 years ago
I eventually learned that I could leave the induction "hob" settings on 2 or 3 (out of 9) in order to stop heat loss. Initially though it would drop to about 62/63C and I could fire it for about 10-15 seconds to bring it back in line.

I took measurements from both pans every 5 minutes for 60 minutes, with a refractometer. rinsed every time with tap water and dried with a clean towel.

At the 40 minute mark, it appeared that there was some tailing off for the conversion so I decided to ramp the temp up to 70C (this is usually done to denature Beta amylase) and to step into more alpha territory to see if we can get any more conversion.

after 60 minutes I ramped the temp up to 78C to do a mashout (65 minute reading is therefore a post mashout reading) bags were squeezed and hops were added (3g cascade, bittering, and 3g cascade at knockout)

The boil was for 60 minutes, and after "flame/hob out" the wort was strained through a colander to remove the hop flowers and dispensed into Erlenmayer flasks.
There were obvious differences in boil off rates so I decided to top both flasks up to the 1L mark with freshly boiled water.

Flasks were then immediately chilled in the sink with tap water (2X), then tap water with ice. They are curently crash chilling in the fridge for tomorrow, where I will take the S.G. and pitch yeast.
FLASKS.jpg
Picture of the topped up flasks, left is "blitzed", right is "normal". Already I can see some differences in trub. I never realised how blurry the pictures were, but you can just make out the congealing trub in the "normal" (left hand side of the 500ml mark). The blitzed is much more fluffy and easily disturbed. It is worth noting that I did not use any copper finings (whirlfloc).

Here are the results of the conversion.
GRAVITY DATA.jpg
I can make some deductions from the data, but the one thing I must point out, is that there may be some evaporation effect to consider here. The pans were not covered during the mash, and therefore the increasing gravity cannot purely be attributed to conversion. I am, however, quite surprised by how little difference there is between a normal mash & a finely ground mash.
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Last edited by mally on 20 Sep 2014, 03:19, edited 2 times in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #9 made 11 years ago
Mally, I just saw your Pictures, the Blender Version of your grains look close to what I use.

Note: "Fully Convert" means the Specific Gravity No longer changes in the Mash process.

My Experiment(that was not worth Posting) found the Finer the Grain(Flour) can Fully Convert in around 25-30 Minutes, where the LHBS grind takes 45-65 minutes to MOSTLY convert, and May take 75-80 Minutes to (Fully Convert).

I hope your Wort Finishes Very well!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #10 made 11 years ago
Well, I just decanted the wort off the trub and took gravity readings and piched yeast.
normal = 1.038
blized = 1.033

Must be a discrepancy with volumes/trub here. :scratch:
In hindsight I should have made a better effort to measure volumes with gravity, but I just wanted to get the yeast pitched ASAP.

I squeezed the remining wort from the dropper into my mouth to see if i can detect any odd flavours in the wort.
Normal - seemed quite bitter (which is something I normally find anyway).
Blitzed - I was readying myself for a huge tannin explosion, but :nup: , actually seemed a little smoother, but that could be due to the weaker gravity or the fact I had just previously been exposed to bitterness.
Maybe the tannin is more subtle (if it even exists), and can be more easily detected in carbonated & conditioned beer?

Next is to see how they ferment. BTW, I pitched a teaspoon of very thick slurry into each, so even if under/overpitched, they have the same rate.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #11 made 11 years ago
mally, I was going to write here yesterday and then saw you were into the experiment already. Nice job mally :thumbs:.

I'm wondering if you had the same volumes going int the boil? In other words, did the fine crush retain more liquor? Or do you think the volume loss was from more kettle trub?

:salute:
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Post #12 made 11 years ago
I think the fine grind has less absorption.
Possibly more of the husk material that gets retained by the bag under normal conditions (and thus retains more liquid) is shredded so that more of it can pass through the bag and into the kettle. I didn't weigh the spent grain, but I could definately tell there was less material remaining in the blitzed version.

As you said though; I think this leads to more trub.
I would love to hear of any theories as to why the trub should differ between the two. The blitzed one really was fine and powdery almost like fluffy yeast appears. Surely all the components that make up trub (lipids, proteins, poly's etc). are soluble, or at least pass through the bag under normal conditions?

I am not too worried about the differences though. I think some of those can be attributed to the small volume, and there was some "wicking" as well. so maybe one lost more than the other?

For me it will be the taste.

What I am hoping to achieve from this experiment though is to just determine whether it is worth going further. If the taste is the same or better, then there is at least some milage in going further.
I would think about doing a little larger volume, and a more standard liquor/grain ratio just to see if the conversion differences stand out.
My current thinking is that it is not worth doing. I buy my grain crushed, and there seems to be no advantage in crushing any further.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #13 made 11 years ago
Mally, a pound of Grain will absorb the same amount of water, no matter how fine it is ground.

If the Husks are ground to Dust, AND the bag Is too coarse for that Grind, you will get more Trub in the Kettle, and Tannins in the Beer.

The Finely Ground Starch Will convert faster.....Think about rock candy(sugar) and Powdered Sugar, in hot water.
If you can check the Course Ground stuff left in the Bag, see if there are any pieces of Starch.

The grind from your LHBS is good enough.....If you can "Winnow" the Husks from the Grind, you will get less Trub, and Less Tannins, and IMHO better beer.(just My experience, so far)

I Forgot, Much less Stuff in the Bag after mashing.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #14 made 11 years ago
Joshua, thanks for that, but your comment still confuses me :think:

I agree that the grain will hold exactly the same amount of water regardless of grind. In fact you could argue the finer ground holds slightly more as there will be more surface area? However, the fact that there is less material left behind after mashing means that either more material (including liquid) has left the bag, or it is the same and more compacted.


BTW
The fermentation of the samples is well underway; here is a pic of them 12 hours in.
12 hours ferm.jpg
24 hours in and it could be nearly done.
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Last edited by mally on 21 Sep 2014, 15:49, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #15 made 11 years ago
Mally, A bucket can only hold as much water as it's size..

If you have WAY more time than Money.....

On your next brew, squeeze the Snot out of the bag...How snot get's in the bag is another story.

Let the grain dry out....maybe in an Oven for a couple of Hours.

I am sure you will find...the weight of the dried USED grain will by MUCH less then the Original Grain bill....All the Starch should be gone.

I started with 1 KG of grain, when finished mashing, and dried, there was 585gr left.

There was a tablespoon of Sludge in the Kettle after the Boil. Protiens and husk dust......from my old bag, I guess.

There were no hops used until I transferred the Wort to another kettle to Late/Whirlpool Hop

What I am trying to say is a finer grind can Convert faster....But, not any more depending on Mash timing.

Longer Mashes are Better.....Very Much Longer, even better so far.

__________________________________________
If I had to Run for My LIFE......I would Die!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #16 made 11 years ago
Like your signature Josh :lol:

mally

Surprised there weren't more comments on your graph in post #51. I thought that was excellent :drink:. I've never seen anyone do a side by side on this. Sure, a few more replications would be needed but it's already very interesting. Side by sides are the most valuable of experiments.

[This is also one case where refractors readings are far more practical than hydrometer ones. If you took hydro ones, you'd have to let them cool in the freezer for 20 or 30 minutes and during that time, the mash is still continuing in some way though it might be small.]

Let's say that your results were repeated several times on side by sides, then there really is no advantage on a fine grind. Even if you wanted to do a twenty minute mash, the grinds are almost even. The real question is not one of crush size but more one of what does extra mash time add to beer quality apart from some extra efficiency into boil? Lylo has already mentioned attenuation and I know I have read other stuff but have no time to rack my memory banks or research atm.

Anyone else got some links or references?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 21 Sep 2014, 22:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #17 made 11 years ago
PP, there is a Hydrometer Correction program available at http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipa ... l?17259723

So you do not need to Cool the Hydrometer Liquid!!

The Grind IS possibly important.....In my last small batch 1.25 Gallon/4.75L I added 200gram if Toasted "General Purpose" flour to the Mash At 104F....Since it is all protein and Starch, there was Nothing Left in the Bag or Kettle.

It is the fermenter now.

The Idea, I have going is....First remove ALL husk Material, and see how much junk is left in the Bag.

Second, grind the Grain bill to dust, and see how long it takes to convert Fully and How much is left Behind.

Lastly, Lose the bag, and and run the Sweet Liqueur, thru a filter(if necessary), and Boil.

__________________________________________
If I had to Run for My LIFE......I would Die!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #18 made 11 years ago
The BIABacus also has a temperature correction tool Josh but, unlike other correction tools, it will warn you when you are trying to correct at too high a temperature (the further you are away from the ideal temperature, the less accurate the correction). Also many hydrometers will crack at high temperatures (over 50 C / 122 F) and you can be heading into snapping territory) :o.

Another interesting thing here is the over-valuation of time given to making sweet liquor. For example, trying to remove all the husk from the grain and then crush it is going to be a lot of work. Just doing a normal crush and waiting for 90 minutes (or 60 minutes if you want to sacrifice a little efficiency etc) is not a big deal especially when compared to the time that goes into the other parts of brewing, the main one being cleaning :smoke:.

As mentioned above, if mally's experiment can be duplicated, at 60 mins there is no advantage or disadvantage, kettle-efficiency wise between blitzed and normal crush so the question becomes all about quality versus mash length.
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Post #19 made 11 years ago
PP, I have seen the Correction, but, the Link seems more accurate, so far.

If you have a "roller" crush from the LHBS or a home roller crush, you can Winnow the Grain bill in front of a Fan/Blower, and Greatly lower the Amount of stuff left in the bag.

We don't need Husks and it causes temperature problems in the Mash.

I am trying a few ideas to remove the Husk Before the Crush(De-Husk)see http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=2994

With No husk, there is a color loss, and the slight Tannin Flavor, some of us have, is also reduced.

__________________________________________
If I had to Run for My LIFE......I would Die!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #20 made 11 years ago
Got to race but you'll find the link and the BIABacus temp correction are within a gravity point of each other (it's a simple density formula) but the terminology used in the BIABacus is a lot clearer. Hydros are calibrated to a certain temperature and this is the temperature that you need to type in. Regardless, as I mentioned above, large temperature adjustment correction is not great practice :nup:.
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Post #21 made 11 years ago
I'm glad we have some discussion at least :P

I have just tipped the samples into 2 bottles each, sediment and all.
Probably about 400ml in each bottle.

I will crash chill these in a few days for a couple of weeks and see what we have.
I must remember to take a gravity reading though. I have not primed them, I want to keep things as "unaltered" as possible.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #22 made 11 years ago
You've got me worried now mally ;).

400ml in what size bottle? Why crash-chilling for two weeks? (Two/three days in a bottle will be fine).

From memory, you don't have a CO2 bottle but if you did, you could force-carb them but, in this case, I think tasting them uncarbonated would be fine. i.e, get the final gravity reading (wet and shake the hydrometer and the jar first) and then do a taste test.

Great job you are doing :salute:,
PP
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Post #23 made 11 years ago
Don't worry Pat!

The beer is still producing C02, and I wanted to capture them in bottles so that they can naturally carbonate.
These are 500ml PET so as soon as I get a good head of pressure (bottle squeeze test), I can vent quickly to eliminate most of the headspace (the hope here is that more oxygen is vented than C02).

Firstly I am not worried about oxidising as they will be consumed young.

I am crash chilling because they are very cloudy, and I want to get these as close to a "normal" beer as I can.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #24 made 11 years ago
You are way ahead of me mate - good on you :salute:.

Oh, hold on, when to get the gravity reading? You'll have to "flatten" them to get a proper FG and you'll need 250 mls to do that with a hydro. Bugger that! Maybe use your refractometer to see if there is some difference. If so, take a couple of small samples to double-check?

At this stage of the game, I think taste is what matters (and about three other brewers, to put their hand up to spend the time you have to see if they can replicate your results.)

:peace:
PP
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Post #25 made 11 years ago
OK, so here is the experiment update;

Just to recap...

The recipe of 100% pilsner malt & cascade hops was a reasonable choice as there should be nowhere for flavours to hide. The hop additions were light/minimal at 1g/L for both (bittering & flameout).

Normal - O.G. 9.5 Bx (1.037), F.G. 4.3 Bx (1.008), 3.6% ABV
Blitzed - O.G. 8.2 Bx (1.031), F.G. 3.9 Bx (1.008), 3.0% ABV
All measurements carried out with a refractometer, F.G. data obtained by using the Sean Terrill calculator.
blitzed exp pic.jpg
Blitzed is on the left, normal on the right.

The difference in taste was almost imperceptable. In fact, the difference between them was probably due only to the ABV? :scratch:

There were no off flavours in either of them. At a push I would say the normal one had more body & mouthfeel.
They both finished out at the same gravity which is a little odd? attenuation(s) of 78% & 74%

What this experiment tells me is that (n=1, so be careful)! not only is further investigation required, but can be done so without the fear of potentially making undrinkable beer.
The trub issue is still a little strange, it didn't seem to be excessive, but was very powdery.
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Last edited by mally on 30 Sep 2014, 01:23, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
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